• Work
  • About
Menu

Aonghas Crowe

  • Work
  • About
DSC04547.jpg
expo_25.jpg

Summer of Loathing

April 28, 2019

I don’t know of any other country where the destruction of war is as intricately woven into the fabric of the season as it is here in Japan. Throughout the estival months, documentaries and specials are broadcast on television and memorial services are held across the nation, reminding us of one needlessly tragic event in Japan's history after another.

The Battle of Okinawa began on April first and ended 82 bloody days later on the 21st of June. It was the largest, slowest, and bloodiest sea-land-air battle in American military history, claiming upwards of 250,000 lives (both military and civilian). My great uncle, Simon Bolivar Buckner, Jr., commanded the 10th Army, the main component of the expeditionary forces landing on Okinawa. On June 18th, just a few days before the end of hostilities on the island, he was struck down by enemy fire, becoming the highest-ranking U.S. military officer killed in World War II.[1] General Mitsuru Ushijima, Buckner's Japanese counterpart in the battle, committed ritual suicide on June 22nd by first disemboweling himself with a tantô (short sword) and having a subordinate behead him.

Last photo of Buckner (right) just before he was killed.

Last photo of Buckner (right) just before he was killed.

One of the more remarkable, and for many Westerners incomprehensible, features of the Battle of Okinawa were the kamikaze suicide attacks by Japanese pilots against Allied ships. Although they had been used in earlier military campaigns, the peak in kamikaze attacks came on the 6th of April, when nearly 1500 pilots took off from bases in Kyûshû never to return.

USS Bunker Hill after being hit twice by kamikaze.

USS Bunker Hill after being hit twice by kamikaze.

Many Americans, I think, would be surprised to learn that most of the young men piloting these planes were among Japan's best and brightest, college graduates from the nation's top universities. One of these doomed kamikaze pilots was the older brother of an octogenarian student of mine who would himself go on to become a professor of genetics at Kyûshû University, studying at Yale and Princeton in the 50s and 60s. He can still be brought to tears when recalling the senseless death of his brother who, he says, had showed so much promise.

   The ill-fated kamikaze attack coincides, incidentally, with the start of the swimming season at many beaches in Okinawa.

   Months before the Battle of Okinawa had begun, the U.S. Air Force under the command of Curtis “Bombs Away” LeMay had been executing a massive bombing campaign against cities in Japan.[2]The most famous of these is the March 9-10th raid on Tôkyô when over three hundred low-flying B-29 Super Fortress bombers dropped cluster bombs armed with napalm on the city. The deadliest air raid of the war, it would destroy 16 square miles or a quarter of the city and kill more than 100,000 people.[3]

   More raids were ordered: Nagoya (March 11/12th and again on the 14th and 16th), Ôsaka (March 13th) Kôbe (March 16/17th). LeMay intended to knock out every major industrial city in Japan in the next ten days, but ran out of bombs. Think about that.

   In Errol Morris’s provocative documentary Fog of War, former Secretary of Defense Robert McNamara brings the numbing stats of the raids home:

“Why was it necessary to drop the nuclear bomb if LeMay was burning up Japan? And he went on from Tokyo to firebomb other cities. 58% of Yokohama. Yokohama is roughly the size of Cleveland. 58% of Cleveland destroyed. Tokyo is roughly the size of New York. 51% percent of New York destroyed. 99% of the equivalent of Chattanooga, which was Toyama. 40% of the equivalent of Los Angeles, which was Nagoya. This was all done before the dropping of the nuclear bomb, which by the way was dropped by LeMay's command.”

   On the 19th of June, the city of Fukuoka, too, was bombed,[4] some 200 tons of incendiary bombs being dropped on the city.[5] The neighboring towns of Tôsu, Kurume, Moji, Shimonoseki, and so on were also attacked. The fact that these relatively minor cities were also bombed to kingdom come makes me wonder if any town was spared LeMay's wrath. If he had had his way, the whole country would have been left in ruins. "We don't pause," LeMay would write later, "to shed any tears for uncounted hordes of Japanese who lie charred in that acrid-smelling rubble. The smell of Pearl Harbor fires is too persistent in our nostrils."

   The bombing of Fukuoka lasted for an hour and 42 minutes, destroying 3.77 square kilometers of the city and 33% of the buildings. 902 people were killed, another 586 seriously wounded, a small number when compared to the wholescale carnage inflicted upon Japan’s larger cities.

Reconnaissance photo of Fukuoka

Reconnaissance photo of Fukuoka

Bombing of Fukuoka

Bombing of Fukuoka

Downtown Fukuoka (Tenjin) after the bombing.

Downtown Fukuoka (Tenjin) after the bombing.

Damage assessment.

Damage assessment.

   I have found some conflicting accounts online--the numbers don’t quite add up--but apparently on the day after the air raid, eight airmen out of the twelve to twenty Allied POWs being held in Fukuoka at a detention center where the courthouse is located today were taken to the neighboring Fukuoka Municipal Girls' High School[6], where they were hacked with swords and beheaded. They were the lucky ones. Another eight had been trucked a few days earlier to the Kyûshû Imperial University Medical Department (today’s Kyûshû University) where they were used in a total of four vivisection experiments on May 17 (2 men), May 22 (2 men), May 25 (1 man) and June 2 (3 men).[7]There was another incident on Aburayama that involved more torture and beheading of POWs.

   On July 16th, the first nuclear explosion was tested in America, proving that a nuclear bomb would work. Ten days later on July 26th, the US, Britain, and China issued the Potsdam Declaration which concluded with a “call upon the government of Japan to proclaim now the unconditional surrender of all Japanese armed forces, and to provide proper and adequate assurances of their good faith in such action. The alternative for Japan is prompt and utter destruction.”

   That prompt and utter destruction came on August 6th when Hiroshima became the first city to have an atomic bomb dropped on it. Three days later, Nagasaki was also nuked. Both days are solemn ones of remembrance for the victims of the bombings, which claimed 150,000 to 246,000 lives.

   Putting aside questions of the morality of dropping one, let alone two, atomic bombs on Japan after having already laid waste to most of the country with incendiaries, I have a problem with the bombings in that they allowed the Japanese to shift the focus of the discussion from one of remorse (look at the suffering we caused) to one of self-pity (look at how we suffered).

Gyokuon.jpg

At noon on August 15th Emperor Hirohito read the Imperial Rescript on the Termination of the War effectively bringing the war to end. (What took you so long, Hiro?)[8] The date of Japan’s "surrender" happens to coincide with the final day of the Bon Festival of the Dead as it is observed in most of the country. This somber festival tends to signal the psychological end of summer in Japan, as I have written elsewhere. 

   I've always thought that making the 15th a national holiday--let's call it Heiwa no Hi (Peace Day)--would be an appropriate way to commemorate the end of the war. Most Japanese already have the day off anyways to attend to family business during the Bon holiday.

   So there you have it: the Japanese summer begins in Okinawa at pretty much the same time that the battle for the island commenced and comes to and end with the surrender of Japan.

   With all these gloomy milestones, it almost make me want to head back to the States this summer.


 [1] A monument to General Buckner can be found at the place where he died atop a craggy knoll in Itoman City.

[2] American Experience produced an excellent documentary called “Victory in the Pacific” that can be viewed online at www.pbs.org

[3] Many dispute the number of casualties, arguing that the population density of the city at the time would have ensured even higher casualty figures.

[4] You can read the Air Objective folder here. Regarding targets in Fukuoka, it says, “The most important industries lie south of Kyushu University—a landmark on the Bay. The most southerly target is Nippon Rubber Co. TARGET 1265 producing footwear and a few tires. Large buildings in thie area which are not considered targets include the Tofu Flour Co., Dai Nippon Beer Co., and Kanegafuchi Spinning Mill. Fukuoka Harbor TARGET 1255 has been enlarged by a filled extension which is capable of taking on ocean-going ships. This made land is now covered with warehouses and has railroad connections with the Kyushu RR network. The new extension is the only known wharf on the Fukuoka side of the bay capable of taking deep-draft vessels . . .Southeast of the wharf is the old town of Hakata containing many small industries. The only large plant is Watanabe Iron Works, Plant No.1 TARGET 1238 which produces ordnance and heavy machinery for the Navy . . . North of the Najima River are the Najima Steam Power Plant TARGET 664 and the Najima Seaplane Base TARGET 1237. The power plant is connected with the same grid as the large Omuta steam plants and must be considered as a potential source of power for both the Omuta Region and the Nagasaki-Sasebo Region, as well as the Fukuoka industries. The seaplane base has declined in importance with the development of the Fukuoka Air Station TARGET 663 across the bay.”

[5] A detailed “War Journal” of the 9th Bombardment Group can be found here.

[6] Today, it is the location of Akasaka Elementary School, just three blocks from my home.

[7] Toshio Tôno, the founder of the OB/GYN where my first son happened to be born, was present during these vivisection experiments and wrote an eyewitness account of it called Ômei: Kyûdai Seitai Kaibô Jiken no Shinsô. Tôno, Toshio, Disgrace: The Truth of the Kyûshû University Vivisection Incident, Tôkyô: Bungei Shunshû, 1979.

   One day when I went with my wife to Dr. Tôno's hospital, I found the book in the waiting room, there among the Japanese equivalent of Good Housekeeping and Parenting. What's this about, I wondered and started to read it. I couldn't put the book down. Dr. Tôno has devoted much of his life helping the families of the victims understand what happened and, hopefully, find closure. He was a good man who happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. 

   Other books on this and related topics can be found here. A list of atrocities committed and punishments meted out by the occupying forces can be found here.

[8] About 2.7 million Japanese (servicemen and civilians) were dead by the end of the war, 3-4% of the country’s population of 74 million. One quarter of the country’s wealth had been destroyed, including four fifths of its ships, one-third of all industrial machine tools, and a quarter of its rolling stock and motor vehicles. Living standards fell to 65% of prewar levels. Sixty-six major cities had been heavily bombed, and 30% of the population of those cities were now homeless. Dower, John W., Embracing Defeat: Japan in the Wake of World War II, New York: W.W. Norton & Company, 1999, pp. 37 – 46. 

The full transcript of the gyokuon hôsô (Imperial broadcast announcing the end of the war):

TO OUR GOOD AND LOYAL SUBJECTS:

   After pondering deeply the general trends of the world and the actual conditions obtaining in Our Empire today, We have decided to effect a settlement of the present situation by resorting to an extraordinary measure.

   We have ordered Our Government to communicate to the Governments of the United States, Great Britain, China and the Soviet Union that Our Empire accepts the provisions of their Joint Declaration.

   To strive for the common prosperity and happiness of all nations as well as the security and well-being of Our subjects is the solemn obligation which has been handed down by Our Imperial Ancestors and which lies close to Our heart.

   Indeed, We declared war on America and Britain out of Our sincere desire to ensure Japan's self- preservation and the stabilization of East Asia, it being far from Our thought either to infringe upon the sovereignty of other nations or to embark upon territorial aggrandizement.

   But now the war has lasted for nearly four years. Despite the best that has been done by everyone – the gallant fighting of the military and naval forces, the diligence and assiduity of Our servants of the State, and the devoted service of Our one hundred million people – the war situation has developed not necessarily to Japan's advantage, while the general trends of the world have all turned against her interest. (Understatement of the century.)

   Moreover, the enemy has begun to employ a new and most cruel bomb, the power of which to do damage is, indeed, incalculable, taking the toll of many innocent lives. Should We continue to fight, not only would it result in an ultimate collapse and obliteration of the Japanese nation, but also it would lead to the total extinction of human civilization.

   Such being the case, how are We to save the millions of Our subjects, or to atone Ourselves before the hallowed spirits of Our Imperial Ancestors? This is the reason why We have ordered the acceptance of the provisions of the Joint Declaration of the Powers.

   We cannot but express the deepest sense of regret to Our Allied nations of East Asia, who have consistently cooperated with the Empire towards the emancipation of East Asia.

   The thought of those officers and men as well as others who have fallen in the fields of battle, those who died at their posts of duty, or those who met with untimely death and all their bereaved families, pains Our heart night and day.

   The welfare of the wounded and the war-sufferers, and of those who have lost their homes and livelihood, are the objects of Our profound solicitude.

   The hardships and sufferings to which Our nation is to be subjected hereafter will be certainly great. We are keenly aware of the inmost feelings of all of you, Our subjects. However, it is according to the dictates of time and fate that We have resolved to pave the way for a grand peace for all the generations to come by enduring the unendurable and suffering what is unsufferable.

   Having been able to safeguard and maintain the structure of the Imperial State, We are always with you, Our good and loyal subjects, relying upon your sincerity and integrity.

   Beware most strictly of any outbursts of emotion which may engender needless complications, or any fraternal contention and strike which may create confusion, lead you astray and cause you to lose the confidence of the world.

   Let the entire nation continue as one family from generation to generation, ever firm in its faith in the imperishability of its sacred land, and mindful of its heavy burden of responsibility, and of the long road before it.

   Unite your total strength, to be devoted to construction for the future. Cultivate the ways of rectitude, foster nobility of spirit, and work with resolution – so that you may enhance the innate glory of the Imperial State and keep pace with the progress of the world.

This is the full broadcast with the text translated into modern Japanese.

In Summer in Japan, Japanese History, History Tags WWII, WWII Bombing of Japan, Bombing of Fukuoka, Battle of Okinawa, Kamikaze, General Simon Bolivar Buckner, Mitsuru Ushijima, Fog of War, Errol Morris, Robert McNamara, Curtis LeMay, Firebombing of Japan, Beheading of POWs in Japan, Gyokuon, Japan's Surrender
Comment
Iccho+Rondon+08917.jpg

Iccho Rondon

October 24, 2018

One of my favorite areas of Tōkyō is Marunouchi, the commercial district located between Tōkyō Station and the Imperial Palace. I love the architecture, both old and new, the wide, uncluttered tree-lined streets, the proximity to the Imperial Palace, and, well, I could go on and on.

The land where Marunouchi stands today was originally an inlet of Edo (Tōkyō) Bay. It was reclaimed in the late 1600s and during the Edo Period (1603-1868) feudal lords close to the Tokugawa Shogunate, known as fudai daimyō, maintained homes in the area. Following the Meiji Restoration, the land was used as a barracks and parade ground for the Imperial Army. And around 1890, the land was bought by the Mitsubishi company which began to develop it as a center for business. Mitsubishi still owns much of that prime real estate today.

The first "Mitsubishi Ichi-gō Kan" (Building No.1) was completed in 1894 (Meiji 27). It was followed by the construction of a large number of similar brick buildings, and by the early 1900s the area was nicknamed Icchō Rondon (一丁 ロンドン One-Mile London) because of its resemblance to the British capital.

Iccho+Rondon+48442.jpg
Tōkyō Station, designed by Kingo Tatsuno, was completed in 1914.

Tōkyō Station, designed by Kingo Tatsuno, was completed in 1914.

Marunouchi+pict01.jpg
Iccho+Rondon+7b0a.jpg
icholondon.JPG
marunouchi8.jpg
icholondon+images-3.jpeg
Iccho+Rondon+012.jpg
icholondon_fukan.JPG
Iccho+Rondon+02.jpg
icholondon+images-6.jpeg
icholondon+images-5.jpeg
Iccho+Rondon+18b.jpg

As is sadly all too common in Japan, very little of Icchō Rondon remains today. Except for Kingo Tatsuno's Tōkyō Station, and the Ministry of Justice building near Hibiya Park, I don't think any buildings from the era have survived. If you ask your Japanese friends why, they'll probably shrug. Push them a little and they might venture a guess that the area had been destroyed in the Great Kantō Earthquake of 1923.

There is some truth in that. The massive quake, which killed an estimated 140,000 people in the fires alone, destroyed much of the city, including parts of Marunouchi.

Damage to the Marunouchi Building. The original building was completed in 1923. Today's building was completed in 2002.

Damage to the Marunouchi Building. The original building was completed in 1923. Today's building was completed in 2002.

Metropolitan Police Department burning at Marunouchi. Going, going, . . .

Metropolitan Police Department burning at Marunouchi. Going, going, . . .

Marunouchi_after_the_Great_Kanto_Earthquake.JPG

The earthquake, however, explains only part of the story: many of Marunouchi's brick and stone buildings, though damaged, continued to be used long after the Great Kantō earthquake.

The aerial bombings of Tōkyō during the Pacific War also took their toll. B-29 raids from the Marianas began on 17 November 1944 and continued right up until the day Japan capitulated on 15 August 1945. The Operation Meetinghouse air raid of 9–10 March 1945 is estimated to be the single most destructive bombing raid in history, wiping out more than 50% of the city.

Tokyo_1945-3-10-1.jpg

For more on the war and the bombing of Japan, watch the documentary "Victory in the Pacific by WGBH's American Experience. 

icholondon+11.jpg

 I have no idea when these photos were taken. Many of the modern-looking buildings were built in the 30s. The Dai-ichi Seimeikan which housed the GHQ of the occupational forces was built in 1938. The Tōkyō Chūō Post Office (the white building just left of Tōkyō Station) was built in 1933. The outer portion of the post office remains today and was incorporated into the design of the new Kitte Building that was finished in 2012.

Marunouchi+20.jpg
marunouchi2.jpg

This photo was probably taken in the sixties, judging by the extent of development. It amazes me that the Japanese will build something, tear it down, build something else, tear that down, then build yet another building. There doesn't seem to be a sense of permanence in the designs, something that is not new to Japan. The Dai-ichi Seimeikan replaced a beautiful brick building. (You can see it in the second photo from the top. It is the building on the left side of the street with the street car in front of it.) The exhibit at Seimeikan says that it was a bold move by the architects to do away with the original building. Bold? I'd say it was egotistical and rash. They took a a real gem of a building and replaced it with something you see in pretty much any city today. But, hey, that’s progress!

Marunouchi today

Marunouchi today

Mitsubishi+IMG_6280.jpg

Mitsubishi's Ichigōkan today. Completed in 2009, it is an exact replica of the original Ichigōkan which had stood on that corner from 1894 until 1968. Wouldn't it have been better, and certainly cheaper, to just keep the original Ichigōkan? Apparently there was a movement to try to protect the building, but they failed to keep it from being torn down. Sigh.

Imperial_Hotel_Wright_House_cropped.jpg

Frank Lloyd Wright's Imperial Hotel, Tōkyō suffered a similar fate. Although it managed to come through both the Great Kantō earthquake and World War II unscathed, it was no match for the wrecking ball. Fortunately, the central lobby and reflecting pool were disassembled and rebuilt at The Museum Meiji Mura in Nagoya.

In Japanese History, Japanese Architecture Tags Tokyo, Marunouchi, Icho Rondon, Meiji Era Marunouchi, Marunouchi Before and After, WWII, WWII Bombing of Japan, Mitsubishi Ichigokan, Frank Lloyd Wright, Imperial Hotel Tokyo, Meiji Mura, GHQ, Dai-ichi Seimeikan, Occupation of Japan, Great Kanto Earthquake, Tatsuno Kingo, Tokyo Station, 一丁ロンドン
Comment
IMG_2073.jpg

Kyoto Tower

September 10, 2018

I stood in front of the Hotel Granvia for about a half an hour, and as I waited for you I couldn’t help wondering what on earth “Granvia” was supposed to mean.

Was it a reference to Madrid’s Gran Via, literally “Great Way”, the so-called “Broadway of Spain”, the street that never sleeps? And if so, what did that have to do with muted Kyōto, a city where many restaurants close as early as nine in the evening? Or was it in some way an allusion to the “Great Vehicle” of Mahāyāna Buddhism. Probably not. Most likely, the owners just liked the “sound” of it.

These silly, often meaningless names that architects and planners insisted on slapping on buildings, even here in Kyōto, the very heart of Japan, often made me wonder if the Japanese hated their own culture and language.

Unfortunately, the folly wasn’t limited to naming. Infinitely worse, it expressed itself in monstruments like the awful Kyōto Tower that stood across the street from me like a massive cocktail pick. A fitting design, because the people who had the bright idea of creating it must have been drunk.

The bombings of WWII, which reduced most Japanese cities to ashes, spared Kyōto for the most part, meaning the ancient capital is one of the few cities in Japan with a large number of buildings predating the war. Or shall I say, was. Because that which managed to survive the war proved no match for wrecking balls, hydraulic excavators, and bulldozers.


The first chapter of Tears can be found here.

This and other works are, or will be, available in e-book form and paperback at Amazon.

In Japanese History, Life in Japan, Japanese Architecture Tags Kyoto Tower, Hotel Granvia, Urban Planning in Japan, WWII Bombing of Japan, Kyoto in WWII
Comment

Latest Posts

Subscribe

Sign up with your email address to receive news and updates.

We respect your privacy.

Thank you!
Blog RSS

Blog

Featured
que-12241102027.jpg
Mar 26, 2025
 Meiji Modernization and German Influence
Mar 26, 2025
Mar 26, 2025
Screenshot 2025-02-04 at 6.21.14.png
Feb 4, 2025
Risshi-Shiki
Feb 4, 2025
Feb 4, 2025
政党の変遷_20181001.jpg
Nov 3, 2024
Japan's Political Parties
Nov 3, 2024
Nov 3, 2024
EB9D8A29-A874-400F-9D59-619E85CFD8C5.png
Sep 9, 2024
Keio JR High School’s Entrance Exam
Sep 9, 2024
Sep 9, 2024
Sinburyou.jpg
Mar 25, 2024
Shinburyo
Mar 25, 2024
Mar 25, 2024
GH1mAHXXUAAaJgc.png
Mar 18, 2024
Survival Japanese
Mar 18, 2024
Mar 18, 2024
Usui.jpg
Feb 20, 2024
Usui
Feb 20, 2024
Feb 20, 2024
images.png
Feb 16, 2024
Blue Bottle
Feb 16, 2024
Feb 16, 2024
Screenshot 2024-02-13 at 8.32.52.png
Feb 13, 2024
Private Schools
Feb 13, 2024
Feb 13, 2024
Screenshot 2024-02-05 at 8.58.03.png
Feb 5, 2024
Love Hotels
Feb 5, 2024
Feb 5, 2024

INSTAGRAM

View fullsize All ready for Thanksgiving.

#shochu #imojochu #焼酎 #いも焼酎
View fullsize Display Cases of Kyoto
View fullsize Inuyarai in Kyōto 

京都の犬矢来

Found under the eaves of townhouses (machiya) in Kyoto and along the road, inuyarai were originally made of split bamboo. In modern times, however, they are sometimes made of metal. The original purpose of the arched barri
View fullsize Walls in Gokusho Machi, Hakata
View fullsize The 15th of August is the last day of the Bon Festival of the Dead, Japan’s version of Dia de muertos. On this day, Japanese say goodbye to the spirits of their ancestors. Today I say goodbye to my last drop of Yamato Zakura Beni Imo 35%. Forgi
View fullsize Azaleas at Fukuoka’s Kushida Shrine 

#櫛田神社 #Kushida #springinjapan #Fukuoka
View fullsize Mugon (Tacit, lit. Without Words) rice shōchū genshu from Sengetsu Distillery of Hitoyoshi, Kumamoto. Aged in cypress casks, I believe, it retains that telltale hinoki scent. I normally don’t drink Kuma-jōchū, but this is lovely. I’ll buy
View fullsize Another one of my somewhat hard-to-find favorites. Sang Som from Thailand. So smooth. I used to keep a bottle of it at Gamaradi before the pandemic. May have to do so again. Missed it. Missed Mr. Chang.
View fullsize First drink of the New Year is the best find of the past year: 

Yaesen Shuzō genshu #awamori from #Ishigaki Island. Aged in oak barrels, it has the nose of whiskey, the mellow sweet taste of a dark rum. At ¥5000 a bottle, it’s rather price
View fullsize Santa arrived early and just in time for Labor Thanksgiving Day 🇯🇵 

Two bottles of imo shōchū—one is a favorite, the other an interesting find I happened across during a short visit last summer to the Koshiki archipelago off the western coas
View fullsize Mission accomplished!

Dropped by the new Flugen in Hakata to drink one of my all-time favorite spirits, the somewhat hard-to-fine-but-worth-the-search Linie Aquavit from Norway.

#Flugen #Aquavit #Hakata
View fullsize Two or three weeks ago a friend invited me to join him at a big shōchū and awamori wingding at #FukuokaDome. Ended up buying about ten bottles of booze which I have stashed away at the in-laws’ for safekeeping. Of all the things I bought, this
View fullsize Takumi has once again included Maō in one of their #shochu box sets. At ¥5550, it’s not a bad deal. 

Kannokawa genshū—another favorite of mine made with anno sweet potates from Tanegashima—sold me. Ended up buying two. 

#かんぱい
View fullsize A little present to myself to mark the midpoint of the semester. Easy coasting from here.

Cheers and kampai!

#いも焼酎 #imoshochu #shochu #大和桜 #YamatoZakura
View fullsize Naha, Okinawa

#マンホール #Manhole #Naha #Okinawa #shisa #シーシャ
View fullsize At American Village in Chatan, Okinawa.

#北谷 #マンホール #沖縄 #Manhole #Chatan #Okinawa
View fullsize Final bout lasted 8 seconds. So, I guess it’s safe to say we’ve got that fickle momentum back.

#Karate #空手 🥋 #Kumite #組手
View fullsize 京都ぶらぶら

A long, slow walk through Kyōto
View fullsize 京都ぶらぶら

Kyōto stroll
View fullsize Always good to visit with my fellow traveler.

Gourmets of the world unite!
IMG_3919.jpg

KAMPAI Blog

Featured
Screenshot 2024-02-07 at 17.39.19.png
Feb 7, 2024
60 : 35 : 5
Feb 7, 2024
Feb 7, 2024
1614050579_3.jpg
May 15, 2023
Satsuma Imo Motogusare Disease
May 15, 2023
May 15, 2023
Seifuku Imuge.jpeg
Jun 22, 2021
Seifuku's Imugé
Jun 22, 2021
Jun 22, 2021
May 24, 2021
Kachaashii
May 24, 2021
May 24, 2021
MCHS1968.jpeg
May 16, 2021
Destine
May 16, 2021
May 16, 2021
Apr 26, 2021
Moriawaro
Apr 26, 2021
Apr 26, 2021
Mar 3, 2021
Kampai Shanshan
Mar 3, 2021
Mar 3, 2021
IMG_2395.jpeg
Jan 28, 2021
Mitake Genshu
Jan 28, 2021
Jan 28, 2021
Kikoji.jpeg
Jan 27, 2021
Kokubu Kikoji Kura
Jan 27, 2021
Jan 27, 2021
Hakaio.jpeg
Jan 15, 2021
Hakaio
Jan 15, 2021
Jan 15, 2021
rokuban+wing+2.jpg

Too Close to the Sun

Featured
Feb 20, 2019
80. Why the long face?
Feb 20, 2019
Feb 20, 2019
Feb 20, 2019
79. The Itch
Feb 20, 2019
Feb 20, 2019
Jan 24, 2019
78. Soaring
Jan 24, 2019
Jan 24, 2019
Jan 23, 2019
77. Yaba Daba Doo!
Jan 23, 2019
Jan 23, 2019
Jan 3, 2019
76. Let's Make a Deal
Jan 3, 2019
Jan 3, 2019
Nov 22, 2018
75. The Pied Piper of Patpong
Nov 22, 2018
Nov 22, 2018
Nov 16, 2018
74. Ping Pong Pussy
Nov 16, 2018
Nov 16, 2018
Oct 18, 2018
73. Yaba
Oct 18, 2018
Oct 18, 2018
Oct 16, 2018
72. Lightning Strikes Twice
Oct 16, 2018
Oct 16, 2018
Oct 10, 2018
71. Contacting De Dale
Oct 10, 2018
Oct 10, 2018
A Woman's Tears.jpg

A Woman's Tears

Featured
Apr 2, 2018
18. Just When I Stop Looking
Apr 2, 2018
Apr 2, 2018
Apr 1, 2018
17. Catch and Release
Apr 1, 2018
Apr 1, 2018
Mar 29, 2018
16. Nudging Destiny
Mar 29, 2018
Mar 29, 2018
Mar 25, 2018
15. HAKATA RESTORATION PROJECT
Mar 25, 2018
Mar 25, 2018
Mar 20, 2018
14. Reversible Destiny
Mar 20, 2018
Mar 20, 2018
Mar 12, 2018
13. Graduation
Mar 12, 2018
Mar 12, 2018
Mar 12, 2018
12. Reading Silence Aloud
Mar 12, 2018
Mar 12, 2018
Mar 7, 2018
11. Shut Out
Mar 7, 2018
Mar 7, 2018
Mar 6, 2018
10. The Second Night
Mar 6, 2018
Mar 6, 2018
Feb 28, 2018
9. At the farmhouse
Feb 28, 2018
Feb 28, 2018

Silent Ovation

Featured
Ovation.11.png
Feb 27, 2024
11. High School
Feb 27, 2024
Feb 27, 2024
Screenshot 2024-02-11 at 4.25.37.png
Feb 11, 2024
10. Taichiro Remarries
Feb 11, 2024
Feb 11, 2024
Screenshot 2024-02-05 at 6.24.29.png
Feb 5, 2024
9. Death of My Father
Feb 5, 2024
Feb 5, 2024
hand1.gif

A Woman's Hand

Featured
Jan 24, 2019
52
Jan 24, 2019
Jan 24, 2019
Jan 24, 2019
51
Jan 24, 2019
Jan 24, 2019
Jan 23, 2019
50
Jan 23, 2019
Jan 23, 2019
Jan 3, 2019
49
Jan 3, 2019
Jan 3, 2019
Nov 22, 2018
48
Nov 22, 2018
Nov 22, 2018
unnamed-1.jpg

A Woman’s Nails

Featured
CHHn-rqUIAA4iPq.jpg
Feb 21, 2021
14. Nekko-chan
Feb 21, 2021
Feb 21, 2021
71e7595d28eb0d7d76becf80c766aba2_3.jpg
Feb 20, 2021
13. Tatami
Feb 20, 2021
Feb 20, 2021
Feb 18, 2021
Yoko (Extended Version)
Feb 18, 2021
Feb 18, 2021
197512.jpg
Feb 18, 2021
11. Yoko
Feb 18, 2021
Feb 18, 2021
Feb 17, 2021
10. Yumi
Feb 17, 2021
Feb 17, 2021
00006204.jpg
Feb 16, 2021
9. Mie
Feb 16, 2021
Feb 16, 2021
aonghascrowe-reina-2.jpeg
Feb 11, 2021
8. Reina
Feb 11, 2021
Feb 11, 2021
mie-6.jpg
Feb 10, 2021
7. Mie
Feb 10, 2021
Feb 10, 2021
aonghascrowe-reina-3_4.jpg
Feb 4, 2021
6. Reina
Feb 4, 2021
Feb 4, 2021
abeoto-gravure-image5-52.jpg
Feb 3, 2021
5. Machiko
Feb 3, 2021
Feb 3, 2021
Schechter.Bavel_.TowerofBavel.jpg

HOGEN/Dialect

Featured
Uwabaki.2.jpg
Apr 17, 2024
Uwabaki
Apr 17, 2024
Apr 17, 2024
chinsuko.jpg
Apr 9, 2024
Chinsuko
Apr 9, 2024
Apr 9, 2024
Scan.jpeg
Mar 17, 2024
The Snack with 100 Names
Mar 17, 2024
Mar 17, 2024
Minsa Ori.1.jpg
Feb 26, 2024
Minsa Ori
Feb 26, 2024
Feb 26, 2024
71a4db62b521cf61e57d092101ed1615.jpg
Feb 7, 2024
Taicho ga Warui
Feb 7, 2024
Feb 7, 2024
DTa7CejVoAAGPWU.jpg
Aug 17, 2023
Hashimaki
Aug 17, 2023
Aug 17, 2023
img01.png
Aug 16, 2023
Dialects of Japan
Aug 16, 2023
Aug 16, 2023
town20191010201613_large.jpg
Aug 16, 2023
Yoso vs Tsugu
Aug 16, 2023
Aug 16, 2023
IMG_0831.jpeg
Aug 13, 2021
Uchinaguchi nu Arinkurin
Aug 13, 2021
Aug 13, 2021
Mar 18, 2021
Kampai Shanshan
Mar 18, 2021
Mar 18, 2021
Articles.jpg

Articles

Featured
GPBlog_SummerHomework(GaijinPot_iStock-1024x640.jpg
Aug 27, 2021
With Friends Like These
Aug 27, 2021
Aug 27, 2021
スクリーンショット 2021-06-11 20.22.21.png
Jun 13, 2021
2 Seasons
Jun 13, 2021
Jun 13, 2021
952-LW-illo.jpg
Apr 14, 2019
High Time for Summer Time
Apr 14, 2019
Apr 14, 2019
onomatopoeia.jpg
Jun 18, 2018
Potsu Potsu: Japanese Onomatopoeia and the Rain
Jun 18, 2018
Jun 18, 2018
point-card-lead.jpg
May 19, 2018
Point Break
May 19, 2018
May 19, 2018
last-word-01-860x480.jpg
May 2, 2018
F.O.B. & A-Okay
May 2, 2018
May 2, 2018
Cathay.fukuoka-guide.jpg
Apr 4, 2018
Fukuoka Guide: Spring 2018
Apr 4, 2018
Apr 4, 2018
IMG_4503.jpg
Feb 12, 2018
Woman Kinder-rupted
Feb 12, 2018
Feb 12, 2018
expo_25.jpg
Feb 11, 2018
Summer of Loathing
Feb 11, 2018
Feb 11, 2018
Electtttt-2.jpg
Feb 11, 2018
Election Primer
Feb 11, 2018
Feb 11, 2018

Play With Me

Featured
IMG_0541.jpg
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
IMG_1318_2.jpg
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
IMG_1319_2.jpg
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018

Please Write

Featured
IMG_0862.jpg
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
IMG_1145_2.jpg
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
IMG_1417.jpg
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
Jan 21, 2018
1000 Awesome Things About Japan

1000 Awesome Things About Japan

Featured
Peas and rice.jpeg
Feb 26, 2020
8. Peas Gohan
Feb 26, 2020
Feb 26, 2020
Finders, Keepers.jpg
Jan 16, 2019
7. Finders, Returners
Jan 16, 2019
Jan 16, 2019
Things+Love+About+Japan.6.1.jpg
Oct 10, 2018
6. No Guns
Oct 10, 2018
Oct 10, 2018
Lockers+IMG_8310.jpg
Oct 10, 2018
5. Coin Lockers
Oct 10, 2018
Oct 10, 2018
IMG_5676.JPG
Sep 11, 2018
4. Sentō
Sep 11, 2018
Sep 11, 2018
manu.jpeg
Sep 10, 2018
3. Uprightness
Sep 10, 2018
Sep 10, 2018
IMG_2220.jpg
Sep 6, 2018
2. Manhole Covers
Sep 6, 2018
Sep 6, 2018
On+Board.jpg
Sep 5, 2018
1. Flying in Japan
Sep 5, 2018
Sep 5, 2018
Featured
2nd Carrier Kido Butai.jpeg
Dec 5, 2021
5 December 1941
Dec 5, 2021
Dec 5, 2021
NYT 1 Dec 1941.png
Dec 1, 2021
1 December 1941
Dec 1, 2021
Dec 1, 2021

Powered by Squarespace