The first time I heard of Happy Science was during the 2009 Lower House election that would had the long-ruling Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) a well-deserved drubbing.
One day during the 12-day campaign period before the election,[1] a noisy political sound truck sped past me with the usual contingent of white gloved hands waving out of the windows and the improbable name Kōfuku Jitsugen Tō (幸福実現党, The Happiness Realization Party, HRP) plastered on the side of it.
“You gotta be kidding,” I said to myself as I waved back listlessly to the enthusiastic lackeys in the van.
In 2009, there was no shortage of minor political parties with silly names, including “The Essentials”, “The Freeway Club”, “Japan Smile Party” and “The Forest and Ocean Party”, none of which would gain any seats in the election. The Happies, however, would press on election after election.
Curiosity getting the better of me, I did a bit of research into the party when I got home that day and I learned that HRP was the political wing of Kōfuku no Kagaku (幸福の科学, Happy Science), a cult founded in 1986 by Ryūhō Ōkawa.
According to an article in The Japan Times, “the Happies have an eye-catching manifesto: multiply Japan’s population by 2 1/2 to 300 million and make it the world’s No. 1 economic power, and rapidly rearm for conflict with North Korea and China. If elected, the party’s lawmakers will invite millions of foreigners to work here, inject religion into all areas of life, and fight to overcome Japan’s ‘colonial’ mentality, which has ‘fettered’ the nation’s true claim to global leadership.”
I don’t know about you, but it sounded to me as if the person who wrote the manifesto had been smoking meth.
Pipe dream or not, Kōfuku Jitsugen Tō fielded 345 candidates, or nearly one in each electoral district—more than the either the Democratic Party of Japan, which would go on to win the election, or the ruling Liberal Democratic Party—in the 2009 election, yet failed to win any seats in the National Diet. Further bids in 2012 and 2014 with a similar number of candidates also yielded zero seats. At a cost of 3 million yen per individual electoral district and 6 million yen per proportional representation block, The Happies have squandered almost six billion yen (over $50 million) over the past three campaigns.
Or have they?
If the real aim of these hopeless election campaigns has been brand recognition rather than electoral victory, then The Happies must be very happy indeed. Six years ago, I had never heard of either the cult or its leader, but now I have. I’m sure it is no different with your average Tarō in Japan.
Still, fifty-plus million dollars ain’t chump change. By comparison, Mitt Romney spent $42 million of his own money in his failed attempt to win the Republican nomination for presidential candidate in 2007-08, the second most spent by a candidate self-financing his run. All of this got me thinking how The Happies were able to finance not only their election campaigns, but also their construction boom which has seen several gaudy new palaces dedicated to the ego of Ōkawa erected throughout Japan over the past several years.
It’s hardly news that religions, old and new, are able to generate fabulous amounts of tax-free income, but to make money, they’ve got to have adherents to their faith.
According to Happy Science’s, the cult claims to have twelve million followers in ninety countries. I found this number to be highly dubious as it is the exact same figure claimed by another cult, Sōka Gakkai. Although considered a “new religion” in Japan, S.G. International has been around since 1930 and has its origins in Nichiren Buddhism, which itself dates back to the 13th century. Although, I do not know anyone who is a follower of Ryūhō Ōkawa, I have come across quite a few members of Sōka Gakkai over the years. The entertainment world in Japan is famously peopled with followers of the religion.
By comparison, the Mormons[2] have over 15 million followers and the Jehovah’s Witnesses have 8.2 million, thanks to both religions’ aggressive missionary work throughout the world and unfortunately at my doorstep.
The more I ruminated on it, the more Happy Science’s claim of twelve million believers just didn’t add up.
Then it hit me. I knew how to get a fairly accurate estimate of Happy Science’s followers in Japan: the results of the 2009 election.
In the proportional representation blocks, The Happiness Realization Party and Kōmeitō, the party closely tied to Sōka Gakkai, got the following number of votes:
Hokkaidō Block
20,276 votes for HRP vs. 354,886 for Kōmeitō
Tōhoku Block
36,295 vs. 516,688
Northern Kantō Block
46,867 vs. 855,134
Southern Kantō Block
44,162 vs. 862,427
Tōkyō Block
35,667 vs. 717,199
Hokuriku Block
32,312 vs. 333,084
Tōkai Block
57,222 vs. 891,158
Kinki Block
80,529 vs 1,449,170
Chūgoku Block
32,319 vs. 555,552
Shikoku Block
19,507 vs. 293,204
Kyūshū Block
54,231 vs. 1,225,505
The Happiness Realization Party garnered about 459,000 proportional representational votes, less than 6% of the 8,054,000 votes for the Kōmeitō, which suggests that The Happies actually have around 720,000 followers. After watching this video of Ryūhō Ōkawa’s great psychic power, it makes me wonder how he managed to even get that many.
Obviously, I'm in the wrong business.
A Handy Guide to Tipping in Japan
A Handy Guide to Tipping in Japan
Waitbutwhy posted the above stats on tipping in the U.S. I thought I would take it a step further and provide some helpful information on tipping in Japan for those of you who may be visiting this country.
WAITER — Bupkis*
DELIVERY — Bupkis
TAKEOUT — Bupkis
BARTENDER — Bupkis
BARISTA — Bupkis
CAB — “It’s not much, but keep the change.” (When you’re drunk or your kids were noisy. Otherwise, bupkis.)
VALLET — What’s a vallet?
BELLMAN — Bupkis
DOORMAN — What the hell’s a doorman?
HAIR SALON — Bupkis, they charge enough as is.†
*Bupkis (also bupkes, bupkus, bubkis, bubkes): emphatically “nothing”, as in “He ain’t worth bupkis.” (indeterminate, either ‘beans’ or ‘goat droppings’, possibly of Slavic, Vlach, or Greek origin; cf. Polish bobki ‘animal droppings’).
†Learned the other day that the cost of running a typical hair salon in Japan is only 11%. I always figured the profit margin for salons was high, but not thathigh. Seems that with one squirt of shampoo, some warm water, and a towel, you can earn six to ten thousand yen. Hmmm. Haircut, anyone?
One last thought, I think the true reason behind tip inflation (15%→20%) in the US is Americans’ poor math skills.
Pyon
When I was barbecuing the other day, an ear of corn I had on the grill rolled off and fell to the ground.
My wife suggested rinsing it off and tossing it back on to the grill, which I might have done if the corn hadn't landed right next to my rabbit Pyonkichi's toilet.
After a moment, she said, "If this were a time of war, we would probably eat the corn anyways."
"If this really were a time of war," I shot back, "we would have eaten Pyonkichi a long time ago."
Running in Place
Years ago I moved from Arato (near Ōhori Park) to Daimyō. On one of my last nights in the neighborhood, I popped into my favorite koryōri-ya and told the master that it was with great regret that I had to say good-bye to them. "You see, I'm . . . moving away."
"Oh? Where to?" asked his wife.
"Daimyō."
"Oh? Daimyō where?"
"One chōme."
"Where in exactly?"
As luck would have it, I was going to be living in the very same building as the couple. So, we didn't have to say goodbye after all.
Fast forward ten plus years and my wife is at the neighborhood bakery where Mrs. I tells her that today will be their last day of business. They're going to close down the bakery and demolish the building. What they do next is up in the air. They may build an apartment building, but at the moment nothing is decided, nothing except that they will be moving.
My wife who has been going to the bakery as often as three times or four times a week and chatting with the woman was sad to hear that they would be moving away.
"Don't worry," the baker's wife replied. "We're moving into your building. We'll be right upstairs from you."
Fukuoka, despite its size, is a very small town.
How Not to Get Hired in Japan
Ms. Suzuki couldn’t have been more explicit about being on time. “You cannot be late,” she said at the end of last week’s interview. “Not even once.”
I had arrived twenty minutes late for it. What can I say for myself? I’m human and, well, stuff happens.
“I do not tolerate sloppiness or tardiness,” she said. “Is that understood?”
“It is.”
“Your boss told me that you were often late.”
The bastard!
I admitted that I might have been late a few times over the course of the year. But often? No, no, no. That was an exaggeration. “Did my boss inform you that he had me travelling all over Kitakyūshū in the rain, sleet, and snow? Yes, I may have been a few minutes late every now and then, but I always overcompensated by staying . . .”
“Well, I won’t tolerate you being late even a few minutes,” she said. “Is that clear, Peadar?”
“Crystal.”
“Can you promise me that you won’t be late?”
“I can,” I answered wearily.
“Then I’d like you to come again next week. And be there by nine sharp.”
“Nine o’clock sharp,” I said, writing the time down in my day planner. “I will be there. You can counton me.”
And yet here I am, and it’s two minutes of nine when the train pulls into the station. I’m one missed step from getting sacked even before I’ve been officially hired.
My intestines do a somersault as I step onto the platform. I really should head straight for the restroom, but time’s not on my side.
If only I hadn’t taken the slow train. If only I had made the connection. If only . . .
Twenty-six years old and my life is already a litany of regrets.
Climbing up out of the subway station, my gut calms somewhat, giving me a reprieve. It’s the first bit of luck I’ve had all morning and so I quicken my pace, but not too fast. Heaven forbid I jump-start my bowels into peristalsis.
A few minutes later and short-winded, I stand before the foot of the stairs that lead to my next place of employment: The American School. After catching my breath, I climb the steps and introduce myself to a dour young woman sitting behind the counter. She says that Suzuki-senseihasn’t arrived yet and, gesturing toward the next room, tells me in to take a seat and wait.
Plopping down on a shit-brown vinyl sofa in the lobby, I thank my lucky stars that I managed to get here before the president of the school.
The American School is a bit larger than the dismal little eikaiwa[1]I’ve been slaving away at for the last twelve months, but no less bleak. Like a dozen other private English schools in the city, many of which I’ve had the “pleasure” to visit for interviews before Suzuki finally called me back, there are the usual weathered stencils on the window declaring it to be an “English ConversationSchool”. There are classes for children and adults. Students, a sign states, may enroll at any time.
There are chalkboards instead of the more common white boards. In the largest of the school’s four classrooms small desks are arranged in a circle. The walls are decorated with the kinds of cheap posters you find at a teaching supply store in the States, and photos cut out of magazines. The lobby has been furnished with secondhand furniture. The sofa I’m sitting was, I imagine, once in Suzuki’s own living room.
It is, in short, an uninspiring place. If the schedule weren’t so ridiculously easy—only two or three classes a day compared to the five or six that have been teaching—I might have taken up employment at Yeehaw! English School, instead.
Being paid more to work less, that’s what this gig amounts to. As intractable as the dreariness hanging in the school’s air is, that is still a song I can dance to. Better still, I’ll have a boss who seems to know what she’s doing, rather than the moron who clutches at straws just to keep from going bankrupt every month.
Even if the expiration date of my visa weren’t bearing down on me, I tell myself, I would still leap at Suzuki’s offer.
Considering how miserable my first year in Japan has been—after twelve months I’ve emerged heart-broken, humiliated, physically and emotionally exhausted, not to mention broke—you’d think I’d be ready to return to the States like everyone else I know is. Blame it on misfiring synapses, if you like, but it is precisely because the year’s been so patently awful, that I sit here on a shit-brown vinyl sofa and think with muted optimism: Things can only get better. Things can only get better. Things can only get better.
It’s a congregation of one, of course, that I’ve been preaching to. No one else will listen. Every gaijinI know is going back to his or her home country, including my closest friend in Japan, Ben, the only person who can honestly say that he’s had a fulfilling year.
None of my expat friends mince their words. You must be a masochist to even consider staying another year, they say. Why subjugate yourself to another twelve months of what will surely be more of the same bullshit and hassles, they ask. Like a proselyte whose faith has been challenged, I defend the choice and remind them that I will not only be teaching less but will be living in Fukuoka City rather than godforsaken Kitakyūshū.
I’m not very convincing, though. How do you expect me to be when I can’t even win myself over to my way of thinking?
No, the truth behind my willingness to remain in Japan is an obstinate unwillingness to let go of the thin hope that the woman I love might find it within herself to come back to me.
Fifteen minutes pass and still no Suzuki.
So much for the importance of being punctual . . .
I’ve been feeling like crap lately, really awful. And today my chest aches from the congestion, my nose dribbles nonstop. Every time I breathe in, the fluid in my lungs rattles like a hookah. And, if that weren’t enough, my stomach has started to act up again. The coffee I had earlier seems to have gone right through me.
Just as I’m about to stand up and inquire about the restrooms, Suzuki arrives. The four-foot-eight powerhouse smiles widely and bellows out a sunny greeting, then disappears into the office. I’d love disappear myself into the restroom, but figure it is best to wait, in spite of my stomach doing flip-flops.
Suzuki gives the girl in the office a big “Ohayō” after which the two chat in hushed voices. With the restroom beckoning, I’m tempted to interrupt but then Suzuki emerges. The broad smile she was wearing when she arrived is now gone.
She directs me to a smaller classroom where we sit across from each other at an old dining room table. She looks down at the document before her, hard nails tapping at the surface of the table. The woman is fuming about something and I haven’t got the courage to ask what about. She looks up from the document, and stares at me through her steel-rimmed glasses. For a woman of such small stature, she comes off as formidable, intimidating, and downright frightening.
She inhales slowly, deeply before speaking. I inhale slowly, shallowly so as to not shock my bowels. I’ve begun to percolate and want nothing more of this world and this woman before me to be excused. Nature has stopped calling; it’s now shouting, imploring me. The way Suzuki is looking at me, however, tells me there’s nothing I can do as my insides churn but try to squeeze my butt-cheeks together.
“In our conversation last week,” she begins, “I made it veryclear that you were notto be late . . .”
“Y-yes, I know.”
“Yes, youknow . . .” She glares at me over the tops of her spectacles. “But, you were late today, weren’t you?”
Jesus Christ, that bitch in the office went and told her I was late.
“Yes, but only . . .”
Oh, Mother of God help me! My bowels have started doing the rumba.
“I have a right mind to tear this contract up and find someone else. It wouldn’t be hard, after all. There are more than enough people out there looking for work.”
And then, Suzuki actually picks up the contract and rips it in half.
What the fuck?
The shredded contract lies on the tabletop before me and Suzuki has a look on her face like I have wasted her time and, would you just leave. If it wasn’t for the fact that my visa is going to expire in less than a week and I now have no other prospect for employment, I would flip Suzuki and that other bitch in the office the bird and storm out of the building. But I need the job. Good God, do I need ever it.
As Suzuki glares at me, the realization that I’ve made a huge mistake hits me like a kick in the gut and I can’t take it anymore.
“I’m sorry,” I say standing up carefully, “but, I’m feeling very, very ill.”
I dash out of the classroom, pass the lobby and office, and hurry towards a door that has “o-tearai” (honorable hand washing) written in Chinese characters on it. Opening the door and hoping my troubles are over, I discover they’ve only just begun: the school has a fucking Japanese-style squat toilet.
Oh, for the love of God!
Taking a crap on, or should I say aboveone of these toilets is like trying to void your bowels into a shoebox.
In the floor of a slightly raised area is a narrow porcelain trough barely a hand’s length wide. I mount it and squat as well as my stiff Achilles tendons will allow me, but my arse is hovering precariously above my pants gathered at my ankles.
With the forces of nature in motion, I grab onto a large sewage pipe that runs from the ceiling down to the floor and hold on to it for dear life. I then lean back and peer down between my legs like a bombardier might until the target comes into sight. When it does, it’s bombs away!
The collateral damage is worse than expected: half of my payload lands far off target.
Good grief!
After I’ve done my business, I spend several minutes tidying the toilet up. No matter how much I wipe the porcelain down, a heavy smell of death hangs in the restroom.
I look in the small cabinet above the toilet, hoping to find a book of matches, but there is none. Next to a few rolls of the rough brown toilet paper I sanded my ass with, I find a can of what, judging by the picture of a field of flowers on it, must be air freshener.
I give the room a liberal spray, and stir up the air with my arms, but an obtrusive hint of ordure lingers stubbornly in the sweet floral fragrance, like a filthy pig lolling about a flower garden.
Several minutes later, I return to the small classroom and apologize to Suzuki. “I’m not feeling very well,” I tell her. “If today’s meeting weren’t as important as it is, I would have cancelled it and suggested meeting later in the week when I was feeling better.”
Suzuki softens somewhat. She’s still visibly irritated, however, with the foul souvenir that has trailed me back into the room, the woman cannot doubt my candor. I am clearly ill.
Just then a shriek comes from the direction of toilet. The young woman in the office has ventured into no-man’s land.
Serves her right.
Suzuki stands up and leaves me alone in the classroom (Could you blame the woman?) and returns a few minutes later with another contract, which she places on the table before me. She asks that I read through it.
As I go through the contract, my jaw drops onto the tabletop. Each item in the contract is written in the bluntest of terminology—namely, do this and you’ll be fired; do that and you’ll be fired. There is no room for mistakes at The American School.
If I am ever late—regardless of illness, accident, ill-timed bowel movements, or what have you—my employment will be terminated on the spot.
I swallow hard and sign the contract. What else do you expect me to do?
Once all the paperwork is complete, Suzuki instructs me to meet her at Immigration next week, the day before my visa expires.
“If you are even a minute late,” she warns, “I will have no choice but to look for someone else. Am I understood?”
“Y-yes, you are.”
“Well, then. See you next week.”[2]
I would end up staying with “The American School” for four years. I was never late or absent during my entire time there. The same could not be said of Suzuki-sensei.
[1]Aneikawais a private school at which “English conversation” is taught as opposed to the grammar-heavy textbook English taught in most junior and senior high schools. Until about the mid 90s many teachers of English couldn’t actually speak English. With the introduction of ALTs (Assistant Language Teachers from English-speaking countries) at most schools throughout Japan and changes to the curriculum, the ability of both teachers and students has improved remarkably.
[2]Landing My Second Job is excerpted from my loosely autobiographical A Woman’s Nails.
Our Neighbor Huck
A year ago, my wife read a Japanese translation of Tom Sawyer to our sons. (I have also read a number of simplified English versions to them and have shown them animated and live-action versions, so they're well versed in the Mark Twain's classic.)
Anyways, in a neighboring building is a family like ours -- a Caucasian father, Japanese mother, and boys. That's where the similarity ends. The father does not work and seldom ventures out of the house. The two older boys--junior high school and late grade school--don't go to school. The youngest is a year ahead of our own boy at the local elementary school.
When I was explaining to my son that the family had problems, that the father was an alcoholic and the boys didn't go to school, my son's eyes widened and he said, "Just like Huckleberry!"
The name stuck, so we now call the kids Big Huck, Middle Huck, and Lil' Huck.
A few years back, I met an Australian who used to live in same building as "The Huckleberries". He told me the family was nothing but trouble and things got so bad--vandalism, pranks--that he had to move out.
"Those kids have a life of crime ahead of them," was his opinion. There was no sympathy for the kids who are probably struggling to cope in the only way they know how.
Every now and again, something happens over there and one of the younger boys screams. It's a blood-curdling scream, the kind that usually precedes a knife in the chest. It happened again at seven-thirty this morning.
I don't think this will end well.
Ubasuteyama
A woman was telling me about her 90-year-old mother.
“She was recently released from the hospital and she’s been given everyone a hard time. It’s not that she’s senile. It’s just that she’s very stubborn and won’t listen to anyone. I, I, I don’t know what to do with her anymore.”
“You see that mountain over there,” I asked, pointing out the window.
“Yes.”
“Well, it can get awfully cold there at night . . .”
“I don’t follow you.”
“Why not take o-bā-chan for a little drive into the mountains and . . .”
“You’re a terrible person.”
“I’m just trying to help.”
From Wiki: "Ubasute (姥捨て, 'abandoning an old woman', also called obasute and sometimes oyasute 親捨て 'abandoning a parent') is the mythical practice of senicide in Japan, whereby an infirm or elderly relative was carried to a mountain, or some other remote, desolate place, and left there to die. Accordingto the Kodansha Illustrated Encyclopedia of Japan, ubasute 'is the subject of legend, but [...] does not seem ever to have been a common custom'.
Bigger and Better
Japanese are getting taller and taller.
I always notice this at the start of an academic year when I look out at the freshmen in my class. When I first came to Japan, I was usually the tallest person in the room. On the bus, in an elevator, or on the train, I had a clear view over everyone's head. Then about ten years or so ago, that view started to get obstructed by foreheads and tops of heads. Now, there are many who are as tall as, or taller than, me and quite a few who tower over me.
I asked my son what he thought about it. He's the tallest kid out of some 120 in his grade. This is clearly thanks to my wife's good genes, but we often joke that his height is thanks to Nattō Power.
"When I came to Japan, everyone was about this tall," I said, pointing to my shoulder. "Now everyone's this big. In only twenty years, they've gone from here to here. Do you think it's nattō that's making everyone get so tall?"
"No," my son answered flatly. "Everyone grew so that they could put distance between their noses and your stinky bottom."
"You know, you might be right."
Food Desert Oasis
The college I work at is located right smack-dab in the heart of a food desert.
Two years ago, though, a Chinese restaurant, called Shin-chan (新ちゃん), opened a five-minute walk from campus. It was an oasis—cheap, good eats, nice and spicy. The Chinese couple, Shin-chan and his wife, running the place were always cheerful and friendly, making it a nice little refuge from work.
A few months ago, I noticed that they had some renovation work done. The name had changed, too. It was now called Lucky something. I didn't think anything about it, except maybe things were going well enough for them they could now afford to put money into the place.
Well, today I finally went there for lunch. It had been about four months since my last visit, so I felt a bit guilty when I stuck my head in the door.
An old Japanese man with half his teeth missing nodded at me as I entered. Who’s this, I wondered. There was another man in the kitchen, with back towards me, cooking Qīngjiāo ròusī (青椒肉絲) in a wok. When he turned around, I saw that it wasn’t Shin-chan. What the hell?
I ordered mābō don (麻婆丼, rice topped with Sichuan style tōfu), figuring you can’t screw up mābō don.
I figgered wrong.
That little oasis of mine which nourished me for years had dried up and was swallowed up by the desert.
Free-Range Kids
I was watching the US news earlier today, and there was a report on a "free-range parenting" law passed in Utah. The report mentioned Oregon as one of the states where kids under ten are not supposed to be left alone/unsupervised.
The law states: "163.545 Child neglect in the second degree. (1) A person having custody or control of a child under 10 years of age commits the crime of child neglect in the second degree if, with criminal negligence, the person leaves the child unattended in or at any place for such period of time as may be likely to endanger the health or welfare of such child."
Under a silly rule like that, we, and I'd say a lot of parents in Japan, would be found guilty of neglect. Our boys (5 and 7) routinely go out and play by themselves, as do many of their friends from school. My main concern is whether they look both ways before crossing streets.
When did Americans get so nervous? When I was a kid, my mother was more than happy to get rid of me for hours at at time. Be home before dark, I was told. And I usually was, albeit covered with mud and scratches.
The other day, I noticed my son had some bad bruises on his arms from karate. He was going to have his annual measurement-taking at school later that day, so I asked him what he would say if someone asked him where the bruises came from. He replied: "I'll tell them Momma did it."
We laughed about it at first, but I warned him against making a joke like that in America as it probably wouldn't end well.
Gaman: dealing with it
There are a number of themes that run through the average Japanese person’s life.
Not wanting to cause other people trouble (meiwaku o kakeru koto) is a dominant one; being mindful of other’s feelings or needs (ki o tsukau koto) is another. These two alone dictate how one acts among strangers and in particular colleagues. A salaryman will forego taking time off to vacation with family because he is loath to make his co-workers work extra while he’s away. A Japanese student who speaks fluent English after having lived abroad will refrain from correcting her English teacher’s mistakes so as to not embarrass the teacher. And so on.
The most pervasive theme influencing the lives of the Japanese, however, is gaman—that is, patience, endurance, and perseverance. Alex Kerr has written of this in his excellent study of the failings of modern Japan in Dogs and Demons: “There is one more important lesson to be learned: schooling in Japan involves a surprising amount of pain and suffering, which teaches students to gambare, a word that means ‘to persevere’ or ‘endure.’ On this subject Duke writes: ‘To survive, the Japanese people have always had to gambare—persevere, endure—because life has never been, and is certainly not now, easy nor comfortable for most Japanese.’ Definitely not. Even when suffering is not naturally present, schools add it artificially. Elementary-school students must adapt their bodily functions to the rules—or suffer.” [1]
Having lived in Japan as long as I have, I’m quite familiar with the silliness that masquerades as discipline. Understand the Spartan vein that runs so very deep within the Japanese psyche and you’ll start making inroads into understanding the often inscrutable behavior of the Japanese people around you. That said, I still find myself flabbergasted by the things I sometimes hear ordinarily reasonable Japanese say.
Take my wife, for instance.
The other day, she announced that she was going to wean our nine-month-old son off breast milk. Good idea, I thought. After six months or so, the health benefits of a mother’s milk are negligible and the sooner we start weaning him the easier it’ll be on all of us.
I envisioned a gradual disengagement, a steady decrease in the number of breast-feedings over a period of time, much like the conditions-based withdrawal of US troops from Iraq and Afghanistan.
My wife, however, had a very different idea.
Weaning, I discovered, doesn’t quite translate into Japanese as neatly as you might think. Whenever I say, “wean”, I tend to include imaginary hyphens and spaces between each letter of the word: w - e - a - n. (The truth be told, at my age, I still haven’t completely w - e - a - n - ed myself off of the tit. But, that’s another story.)
For my wife weaning was a matter of all or nothing. The baby was supposed to go cold turkey. One day he’s breast-feeding, the next he isn’t. Full stop. The word she used for this was interesting: sotsunyū (卒乳), literally, “graduation from the breast”. Our son had graduated from the breast and he was now going to have to persevere, that is gaman.
“Utter nonsense,” thought I, reaching for Dr. Benjamin Spock’s classic book on childcare off and thumbing through the section on breast-feeding.
While we’re on the subject of gaman, permit me to tell you a little story.
I was riding the “highway bus” from the sticks back to Fukuoka City one afternoon when a young woman sitting in the row just in front of me took her cosmetics kit out of her handbag and started to do her face.
This doesn’t bother me the way it can rile some Japanese, older Japanese women in particular who think these younger women ought to avoid causing trouble to strangers (meiwaku o kakenai koto) by showing some good ol' self-control and refrain from putting their faces on in public (gaman suru) as it might upset the people around them (ki o tsukau).
Got that?
Well, as this young woman was putting the final touches on, she pulled out a bottle of perfume and gave herself a couple of shots, the second blast hitting me smack in the face. Had it been one of your better scents, I might have been able to stand it, but the woman's choice of perfume was awful. It was "toilet water" in the very literal sense of the word.
When I cracked the window open a few inches to clear the air, an elderly man who was sitting across the aisle from me immediately told me to shut it. Not wanting to hurt the young woman’s feelings by saying out loud that she stank like a five-dollar whore, I attempted to gesture to the man that it smelled bad and I would close the window in a mo . . .
“Shut the window!”
“I will in a moment.”
“Shut it now!”
“Just a few minutes,” I said, trying to be reasonable.
“Everyone’s cold,” he shouted. "Shut the window!”
The old man’s suggestion that I was causing trouble for the other passengers (our friend meiwaku o kakeru koto, again) by opening the window and ventilating the cabin really ticked me off, so I turned to him and rather forcefully said, “Gaman shité kudasai.” (Please be patient.)
Oh, the look on the old man’s face!
“W-w-what did you say?” he blustered.
“Gaman shirō!” (Just deal with it for Chrissakes!)
And deal with it he did. Quietly.
[1] Kerr, Alex, Dogs and Demons: The Fall of Modern Japan, London: Penguin Books Ltd., 2001, p.289.
The Grass is greener . . .
Playing soccer with my sons in the local park, I tripped as I was dribbling the ball and face-planted into the ground. It wouldn’t have been half as painful if the goddamn pitch we were playing on wasn’t gravel.
Japanese friends and family, the above is what a park looks like in the U.S. Please note how the grass is cut regularly, perhaps as many as two times a week, and watered, yes watered, regularly so that it stays green even in the dry season. Lush, green grass, imagine that!
Inside the Diamond Head State Monument. Again, the grass is cut and watered. Looks nice doesn't it? Kind of makes you want to roll about on it, or spin aound like my wife is doing in the photo, or just lie down it and look up at the sky.
But this is Hawaii, you might say. The climate there is just perfect for parks.
Okay. The next picture is from San Francisco:
Cute kid, if I don't mind saying so myself.
Admittedly not the best photo, but it proves that even in the middle of winter, San Francisco, which tends to be rather chilly and overcast most of the time, also has nice green grass in its public parks. This picture was taken near Ghiradelli Square where you'll find quite a lot of tourists and homeless people (many of whom have apparently gone off their Perphenazine--the homeless, mind you, not the tourists).
Also note the trashcan. Not only is the design pleasing to the eye, it is not overflowing with garbage. Why's that, you ask. Because they are emptied regularly. Novel idea, isn't it? See you don't have to wait until they are filled to overcapcity like commuter trains in Tōkyō.
The following photo is from Portland, Oregon:
Again, this photo was taken in the dead of winter when the sun rarely shines, and yet the grass is still nice and green. A bit bald in spots, but that can'be helped. All the rain tends to make the ground soggy and prone to damage by pedestrians. Leaves are picked up at regular intervals, too. See, you don't have to drastically cut the limbs of the trees in autumn. Let the leaves fall as Mother Nature intended and then rake them up later. Revolutionary!
And this is what one of the better parks in Fukuoka looks like:
Yikes!
I hiked all the way to the park with the intention of playing catch with my son, but . . . For crying out loud, when was the grass last cut?
I wasn't so much worried about losing the ball among the weed as I was about losing my sons.
You know, when you don't maintain the parks, it's no wonder so few people visit them. Then again, that may be the idea behind the lack of maintenance. The fewer the visitors, the less work the parks administration has to do cleaning up after all those people. There's less litter to pick up, fewer garbage cans that need emptying . . . Hmm. Maybe they know what they're doing after all.
To be fair, . . .
. . . there are some nice parks in Japan. These photos were taken at Tōkyō's Shinjuku Gyoen, which is located betwen Yoyogi and Shinjuku stations.
It's a great park. Unfortunately, admission is not free.
What I'm getting at is this: if fat, lazy, and stupid Americans can maintain parks, then surely the Japanese can do it, to. Give it a try!
Mejiro
This morning I saw what I think was a mejiro (目白, a kind of sparrow with white circles around the eyes) in the thicket of bamboo near my apartment. After watching the bird for a minute or two, I turned around and found a stray cat glaring at me as if to say, “I saw the bird before you. It’s mine. MINE, I tell you! MINE!”
It was kind of scary, to be honest. The bird, of course, had no idea what kind of peril it was in. Survival of the fittest at work.
If you were ever curious about how much cats, domesticated cats mind you, kill, check this infographic by The Oatmeal out:
Genki-bai!
Finally, an answer to something I should have figured out long ago, but didn't! What is the difference between the copula (sentence endings) ~tai (〜たい) and ~bai (〜ばい).
~tai (〜たい) is equivalent to ~da (〜だ) or ~desu (〜です) in standard Japanese and can be translated into Japanese as is/be.
~bai (〜ばい), on the other hand, has a similar meaning, but is used for emphasis. It is similar to ~dayo (〜だよ) or ~desu (〜ですよ). Like adding a "hurumph" to the end of your sentence.
The pictures were taken during the Dontaku Festival in May of 2005, shortly after our big earthquake in March of that year. The mascots and blimp-like balloons all say "Genki-bai!" (元気ばい!), meaning "We're (as if Fukuoka) are doing great!"
If Tony the Tiger were from Hakata, he would just say "They're grrrreat!" He's say, "They're grrrreat-bai!"
For more on Japanese dialects go here.