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Vacation Pay, Then and Now

February 4, 2021

When looking into the value of a hundred yen at the end of the Pacific War, I came across a number of interesting comments and anecdotes. One person claimed—and I have yet to fact check this—that a junior high school graduate’s starting salary in 1945 was about 100 yen. An employee in those days would be expected to work ten hours a day, and would be given only two days off a month. Paid vacation did not exist seventy years ago. By 1946, starting salaries rose to four or five hundred yen due to the effects of the post-war inflation and shortages. 100 yen in 1946, could be said to be equivalent to about fifty thousand yen today. 

A week ago, I was talking with a woman who worked for a company that runs a number of fashionable hotels and restaurants throughout Japan and in LA and Manhattan. She was on holiday at the time, explaining that she was entitled to take a total of twenty-two days paid vacation every year. Many companies in Japan give lip service to paid-holidays, but few actually let them take so many days off. The woman had taken off eleven days in order to travel to Kansai. She said she was going take another eleven days off in the summer and travel to America.

When I first came to Japan, most people, including me, worked six days a week. The Prime Minister at the time, Kiichi Miyazawa (yes, that long ago), declared that he wanted to make Japan the world’s leading country regarding lifestyle and leisure. It made me laugh at the time. Even if companies offered their employees paid vacations, none of them could actually take time off. If you wanted to use the benefit, you normally had to resign from your job first. Masao Miyamoto wrote of this in his highly-recommended Straightjacket Society.

Things, I'm happy to say, really have improved for many workers in Japan over the past two decades. There have, no question about it, been a lot of losers, too—part-timers, contract workers, and the like—but that’ll have to wait until another post.

In Working in Japan Tags The Value of ¥100 yen in 1946, Vacation Pay, Paid Leave, Working Conditions in Japan
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Maybe you can buy love

February 3, 2021

  According to the Tokyo Reporter, police in Fukuoka arrested seven suspects on Tuesday for registering non-existent users on an Internet matchmaking site. “Officers from the prefecture’s anti-cybercrime division took Keiichiro Yokomizo, 37, the former president of Garage Inc., and six employees into custody for defrauding 45 members of the deai-kei (or encounter) dating site Deai BBS out of 85 million yen.”

“Deai BBS had 120,000 male and female members on its books. Since its establishment in 2005, the site generated over two billion yen in revenue. According to police, the majority of its users consisted of sakura, or fake, profiles fabricated by company employees.”

120,000 members!!!

2 billion yen!!!

About ten years or so ago, a young university coed told me that she had recently interviewed with a company that ran one of these so-called “deai” (encounter) sites. She had been looking for a part-time job, something to do in the evenings after school and came across a want-ad seeking young women with “computer-related experience” for “clerical work”. She called them up and arranged an interview.

As soon as she had entered the company’s office, she suspected that something was not kosher.

There was a large room with banks of computers, she told me. A small army of young women were typing away on keyboards or sending text-messages from cellphones. All of them were the sakura, women hired to send messages to the male subscribers to entice them to reply (for a fee, of course) in the hope of eventually setting up a date that would never, ever take place, not even if pigs flew and hell froze over.

The manager, a flashy young man of only twenty-four years of age, tried his best to sell the student on the merits of the job: good pay, hands-on experience using computers and business software, and the chance to have fun “role-playing”.

“Um. I don’t think I could ever . . .”

“Sure you can!”

“No, it just doesn’t seem right to me.”

“Think of it as helping these guys. You’re giving them hope, a dream. You’re putting a skip in their step.”

“I would be deceiving them,” she said and stood up to leave.

“Well, if you ever change your mind . . .”

The TR article continues: “One victim, a 25-year-old male from Fukui Prefecture, was allegedly defrauded out of 160,000 yen ($1,539) between February 5 and March 24 of last year. A Kanagawa man, over the age of 70, was swindled out of 10 million yen ($125,000), while a woman in her 30s from Aichi Prefecture lost 20 million yen ($192,000).”

You’d think that a person would start to wise up after losing only 10,000 yen ($125), but guess again. Fools and their money, the saying aptly goes, are soon parted, much faster and easier than I thought.

“Saki”, another woman I know, confessed to me the other day that she had registered with a matchmaking service in November. While she has no trouble meeting or dating men, she has reached the age where she wants to settle down with someone and start a family.

Late last summer, Saki had seen an interview on TV of a woman who ran a successful matchmaking business in Tōkyō. The key to the woman’s success, she claimed, was her selectivity in choosing clients. Saki immediately called her up and made arrangements to meet with her the next time she was in the metropolis.

As the matchmaker deals mostly with clients in the Kantō area [1], she said couldn’t make any promises to Saki, whose first priority was finding a partner who lived closer to Fukuoka.

I was curious how much the service cost. The sign-up fee, Saki told me, was 100,000 yen ($960)—though she was able to get the price knocked down to 30,000 yen ($288) because she didn’t live in Tōkyō. There was also a “modest” fee of 10,000 yen ($104) for arranging an initial date with a prospect, which Saki has already done—she will meet Mr. Goodbar this Sunday. And, in the event that this or another one of these encounters actually leads to marriage, she will have to pay the matchmaking service a final fee of 300,000 yen. ($2,885).

“What if you just don’t tell them about the marriage?” I asked.

She replied that a friend of hers also suggested doing the same thing, but then added that she would be so happy to have finally found someone that she probably wouldn’t mind paying.

I hope everything works out for Saki.

 Follow up: Seven years later, Saki is still single.

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The photos above are from the Twitter account of a Thai woman named ViennaDoll who shares Ideal vs Reality photos that are a riot. Have a look.

[1] The Kantô region includes the Greater Tokyo Area and encompasses seven prefectures: Gunma, Tochigi, Ibaraki, Saitama, Tokyo, Chiba, and Kanagawa.

In Dating, Working in Japan, Crime in Japan Tags ViennaDoll, Deaikei Site, 出会い系サイト, Fraud, Internet Fraud, Japanese Dating Sites, Buyer Beware, Part-time work in Japan
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Row! Row!

January 31, 2021

If you think your boss is unreasonable, listen to this:

A woman I know who was working for the PR section of a fashionable hotel here in town told me that she was so busy it was not uncommon for her to have to work weekends on top of all the overtime she was putting in every day. After a period of two months without a single day off, the woman decided to stay home one Saturday and rest rather than head in to work as she had been doing.

Shortly after nine in the morning, the head manager of the hotel called her, demanding to know why she hadn’t shown up for work.

I'm not sure what she said in her defense, but the long and short of it is that she was fired, or, more likely, was forced to resign.

In her boss’s jaundiced eyes, the woman may have appeared selfish and lazy. I, on the other hand, find it astonishing that she could have endured working so long for such an unreasonable bastard.

What is work supposed to be, after all? An end in itself—work for work’s sake? How fortunate the man who can honestly say that he loves his work. Regrettably, for the majority of those of us rowing like galley slaves, work is little more than a means to provide them with the time and money to do what they really want to do.

In Working in Japan Tags Unreasonable Boss, Japanese Bosses, Working in Japan
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Yoko

January 29, 2021

After a dessert of chilled amanatsu, jelly served in the half peel of the summer orange it was made from, Abazuré says she has to return to the office. Several others take the opening my boss has given them to say they, too, have to hurry home before their children come back from elementary school. So, I'm left alone with Shizuko and our hostess, Yoko. As Shizuko fills my choko with reishu sake, Yoko brings in a basket of cherries she says arrived from Yamagata just this morning.

"Did you try the sashimi, Peador?" Yoko asks placing a handful of cherries on my plate.

"Uh, no, I didn't."

"It's out of this world," she says. "Very fresh."

"I'm sure it is," I say.

"Where did you buy it, Shizuko?"

"I didn't. It was a gift from one of my husband's patients."

"You really must try it, Peador," Yoko insists, reaching for a fresh plate behind her.

"Please, I'm fine. I . . . I've really had quite a lot to eat already."

"Mottainai. What a waste. C'mon, just a little."

"It's, um . . . It's just that . . . " Should I tell her I'm allergic? That I am a vegetarian? No, that won't work; I've been eating meat all afternoon. On a Friday, no less. Religion? Nah, the only religious bone I have in my body is the asadachi (morning woody) I stroke reverently every morning. "I'm afraid I'm not that crazy about sashimi."

Yoko wags her finger at me. "Tsk, tsk. You'll never be able to marry a Japanese woman, Peador."

"Oh? And why's that?"

She takes a long sip from her wine glass leaving a dark red smudge on the rim before speaking. "I don't think two people can be truly happy together unless they grow up eating the same food. I know a couple. Oh, you know him, Shizuko, what's his name? The Canadian . . . " she says snapping her fingers as if to conjure him up.

"John," Shizuko says. "John Williams. Works at Kyûshû University."

"Yes, well, John married a Japanese girl," Yoko continues. "When he met the family for the first time, they served him sashimi. They asked, 'John-san, can you eat sashimi?' And of course he says, he loves sashimi, but actually he couldn't stand fish. Like you, Peador."

"I didn't say I . . . "

"So, the poor girl's parents think 'Yokatta, he's just like a Japanese!' After the marriage, though, this John won't eat a bite of fish and, yappari, now they're getting divorced." Keiko takes another long drink, leaving another red smudge on the rim of the glass. "No, if you don't eat the same food, you'll have all kinds of problems. And that's why foreigners and Japanese don't get along well. I mean, if they can't eat the same food, how do they expect to be able to do anything together, desho?"

She concludes her argument as she often does with a smug look and a broad sweep of her hand slicing through any disagreement.

After all I've eaten and drunk, I don't have the energy to argue. Besides, people like Yoko, who love dominating conversations, tend not to listen to anything but their own sweet voices.

"I really like these hashi oki," I say to myself. "I didn't know you could see fireflies around here."

"You know, international marriages are bound to fail because the cultures are so different," Shizuko says. "You know that JAL pilot, Barker-san, don't you?"

"Oh, yes," Yoko says putting her wine glass down. "I had him and his wife, the poor girl, over last week." You get the feeling Yoko's home is in a perpetual state of hospitality, inviting and feeding guests, then assuring them to come again. Once gone, however, they become the fodder for that red-lipsticked, tirelessly booming cannon of hers.

She picks up a cherry, removes the stem with her long bony fingers then sucks it into the venomous red hole in her gaunt face. "I didn't tell you, Shizuko, but while Barker-san and my husband were out getting a massage, I talked with his wife. The poor girl said she didn't know what to do with him. 'He always wants to do something on his day off . . . go out, jog or hike . . . All I want to do is stay home and rest.' And just as the poor girl was sighing, Barker-san and my husband came back. And Barker, he went right up to his wife, gave her a big hug and kiss and said, 'We're so happy together!'" Yoko fills my choko with more sake, and shakes her head. "I felt so sorry for her."

"So, the fireflies,” I say. “Know any good places I can see them around here?"

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"The problem with young people today," Shizuko says with contempt, "is that they want to marry for love."

This surprises me enough to bring me back into the conversation, and I ask Shizuko if she loves her husband. The two women laugh at me, making me feel foolish for asking. I didn’t know the question was so silly.

"Love," Shizuko scoffs. "Tell me, Peador, why do half of all Americans get divorced?"

I could offer her a number of reasons. Many really. But, I'm really not in the mood to go head to head with these two half-drunk, half-bitter housewives.

"It's very important to know the person you're marrying," Shizuko warns. "Love confuses you."

"Do you want to marry a Japanese girl?" Yoko asks me.

"I haven't given it much thought, to be honest. Anyways, marriage isn't the object. It's the result. If I find someone I love, who also happens to be Japanese, who knows? Maybe I'll marry her."

"You'll never be able to marry one," Yoko says refilling my choko. "You have to eat miso and rice and soy sauce as a child."

Maybe I'm blind or a sentimental dolt, but, somehow, I just cannot accept the idea that what went wrong between Mie and myself was rooted in my dislike of sashimi.

"Everyone wants to marry someone funny and cheerful," Yoko continues, spilling a drop of wine onto her linen tablecloth. "Tsk, tsk . . . She's cheerful but she couldn't cook if her life depended upon it. She buys everything from the convenience store and puts it in the microwave. Ching! Boys want girls that are fun, but they don't understand that what they really need is a wife who can cook real food and take care of children. Young people these days!"

 It was almost as if she was speaking specifically about Mie. My Mie who woke early in one morning, and walked in her pajamas to the nearest convenience store to get something for our bento. She wasn't as hopeless as Yoko might contend; she fried the chicken herself, then packed our lunches and bags before I had even gotten out of bed. When I finally stopped knitting my nightly dream, put down my needles and woke up, everything for our day at the beach had been prepared.

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"It's a shame what some of the mothers fix for their children at the International School. My daughter used to trade her tempura that I woke early to make because she felt sorry for her friends. They were eating sandwiches!"

It was an outrage.

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When I woke, Mie was gently stroking my head. I pulled her into my arms and kissed her soft lips. She laid down upon me, legs to each side of me, then punched the remote to invite Vivaldi into bed with us. As the hot morning sun began to brighten up the room, we made love, made love throughout the Four Seasons.

Later that morning, we drove with the top of her car open, windows down and music blaring to Umi-no-Nakamichi, a long narrow strand of sand and pines that continued for several miles until it reached a small island forming the northern edge of the Hakata Bay. Pine, sand, and sea lay on either side of the derelict two-lane road. We arrived at a small inlet, which had been roped off to keep the jellyfish away and paid a few hundred yen to one of the old women running one of the umi-no-e beach houses. Passing through the makeshift hut with old tatami floors and low folding tables we walked out to the beach which was crowded with hundreds of others who had came to do the same.

By eleven the sun was burning down on us, burning indelible tans into the backs of children. The only refuge was either the crowded umi-n0-e hut or the sea, so Mie and I took a long swim, waded in each others' arms or floated on our backs in the warm, shallow water.

Although I'd eventually get such a severe sunburn that I'd lie awake at night trembling in agony, it was one of my happiest days in Japan. On the way back to Mie’s apartment with my lobster red hand resting between her tanned thighs, I sang along to the Chagé and Aska songs playing on her stereo, making her laugh the whole way.

"I love you," she'd tell me with a long kiss when we arrived back at her place.



"What men need," Yoko repeats, "is a woman who can cook and take care of the home. Someone like your Yu-chan in the office."

The absurdity of what Yoko has just said snaps me out of my daydream. Yu, grayest of gray, as cold and bitchy as they came, may make a suitable Eva Braun for an Al Hitler, but suggesting that she'd make a good wife for me, why, that was insulting.

Yoko, reading the disagreement in my face, says, "See, Yu-chan's gloomy and, well, she isn't much to look at, but she really would make a very good wife for you, Peador. You just don't know it yet."


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© Aonghas Crowe, 2010. All rights reserved. No unauthorized duplication of any kind.

注意:この作品はフィクションです。登場人物、団体等、実在のモノとは一切関係ありません。

All characters appearing in this work are fictitious. Any resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.

A Woman's Nails is now available on Amazon's Kindle.

In Working in Japan, Writing Life, Japanese Women, Dating Tags A Woman's Nails, A Woman's Hand, Dating Japanese Women, Marrying a Japanese Woman
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the 1 Percent in japan

September 3, 2020

With all the talk in recent years about rising economic inequality in the U.S., I was curious to learn more about what the situation was like in Japan. In researching the issue, I came across an interesting site called heikin shūnyū ("average income", sorry Japanese only) which answers a lot of the questions people have about income and wealth in Japan. I will be translating some of my findings here, so check in on this post from time to time. 

 

Ten million yen a year

The first thing that caught my eye was the following:

"年収1000万円の手取りはいくらかと言いますと、ざっくりですが700~800万となります。ちなみに全体の中で、年収1000万以上もらえる人は全体の3~4%となりかなり少ないです。"

Take-home pay for someone earning ¥10,000,000 a year (or $84,873 at today's lousy exchange rate) amounts to about ¥7~8,000,000 ($59,000~68,000). Incidentally, only 3-4% earns over ten million yen a year. 3-4% of what is not clarified. I assume it is 3-4% of those who are working and earning an income.

According to another great site, Trading Economics, the labor force participation rate is 59.9%, giving Japan a workforce of 63,660,000 people. So, if I have calculated correctly, about two million people in Japan earn over 10 million yen a year. That would put them squarely in the top 5%, something I find hard to believe as an income of ¥10,000,000 isn't what I'd call "rich". (See below for the actual stats.)

 

Bragging Rights

How much money would you have to earn for you to feel like you're really raking it in? Minna no Koe ("Everyone's Voice") an online opinion survey run, I believe, by DoCoMo, asked this very question. More than 32,000 people took part in the survey and the results are as follows: 

1. Over ¥10 million 48.8%

2. Over ¥8 million 19.3%

3. Over ¥5 million 12.0%

4. Over ¥20 million 6.3%

5. Over ¥100 million 3.9%

Interestingly, if you look at the answers of those still in their teens, "over ¥5 million a year" drops from third place to sixth and ¥20 million rises to third place. The second most common answer for those in their twenties, however, is "over ¥5 million a year", reflecting perhaps the harsh reality of working life in Japan today.

 

Who's Making What

In 2010, 45,520,000 people in Japan received a "salary", the largest portion, or 18.1% (8.23 million people), earning between ¥3,000,000 ~ ¥3,999,999 a year. The next largest group, or 17.6% or wage-earners (about 8 million people) earned between ¥2,000,000 ~ ¥2,999,999.

Among men, the largest wage group (19.5% of the total) earned between ¥4,000,000 ~ ¥4,999,999. 26.8% of women earned more than ¥1 million and less than ¥2 million.

¥4,000,000 ~ ¥4,999,999 14.3%

¥5,000,000 ~ ¥5,999,999  9.4%

¥7,000,000 ~ ¥7,999,999  3.9%

¥10,000,000 ~ ¥14,999,999  2.8%

¥15,000,000 ~ ¥19,999,999  0.6%

¥2,500,000 ~   0.2%

Those earning over ¥10,000,000 account for less than 5% of all wage earners, or about 2.27 million people.

 

"Kakusa Shakai"

Kakusa Shakai (格差社会, "gap-widening society") is a term you're sure to hear on TV when the discussion is about the economic in Japan. Like America, Japan has seen growing income inequality over the past few decades, though it hasn't been as conspicuous. Rather than go into the reasons for the rise in inequality, I would like to note that as of 2010, there were some 800,000 people who could be counted among the "well-to-do", namely, those earning over ¥20 million a year. By comparison, there were more than 20 million Japanese living in poverty.

(This is a rather old post that I have only just now transferred to my new blog. Will try to update the info in coming weeks.)

In Economy, Working in Japan Tags Kakusa Shakai, Income in Japan, Working in Japan
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Average Annual Salary

March 9, 2020

This is a repost from five years ago. Things have changed quite a bit since then.


More depressing stats from one of my favorite websites of late, Heikin Nenshū Labo. This shows the trend in average salaries in Japan between the years 1995 and 2013. 

In 1995, the average yearly salary for a "salaryman" in Japan was ¥4,570,000. The average salary peaked in 1997 at ¥4.67 million, but has fallen ever since. In 2009, the average salary was only ¥4.06 million, due to the recession that followed the "Lehman Brothers Shock" and stock market crash of 2008. Growth in salaries has been anemic in the years since. 

Looking at this chart, I am curious to know, one, what the average salary was during the bubble years of the late 1980s, and, two, whether salaries have increased in 2014 and 2015. I would also like to know how "salaryman" is defined.

In 2013, the average male salaryman earned ¥5,110,000, compared to an average of only ¥2,720,000 for women.

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This graph shows the average salary for men (blue) and women (red) according to age. 

Doda has a pretty good breakdown of income according to age. The average fortynine-year-old man in Japan earns ¥6,830,000. 46% of those men earn more than seven million yen. Only 13% of men and 5% of women in their late forties earn more than a ten million yen a year. 

At Career Connection, you can get information on the average salary paid by a particular company and read reviews by people who are working or have worked for the company. Nomura Securities, for example, pays workers in their forties an average of ¥16,240,000 a year. Not bad. TEPCO pays its forty-year-old employees an average of ¥12,170,000.

In Working in Japan Tags Average Annual Salary in Japan, Salaries in Japan, Working in Japan
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Ws

August 29, 2019

"Tim Ferriss, the author of The 4-Hour Workweek, and the godfather of the “lifestyle entrepreneur” movement, said it best: 'Money is multiplied in practical value depending on the number of W’s you control in your life: what you do, when you do it, where you do it, and with whom you do it.'”

Every now and again I pick up "The 4-hour Workweek" and read a page or two. (Ditto with "$100 Startup" and similar books.) I didn’t come across that quote, though, until I was reading this. Makes sense. I'm at the point in my life where I can't really be bothered to suck up to a boss or supervisor. I'm also at the point where I don't really have to anymore. I'm kind of in control of most of those Ws.

But, just as I'm thinking, okay, I'm in control now and things are looking pretty darn good, I get a call from an old friend who offers me a trade-off: forfeit those Ws in exchange for more money. How do you put a price tag on each of those Ws?

In Working in Japan Tags The 4-hour Workweek, $100 Startup
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Don't forget to sigh

July 17, 2019

A few years back I was talking to my old friend Rowland about work and my co-workers, one of them in particular. Rowland asked if the guy had two sports coats.

“Not that I know of,” I replied. “Besides, it’s not that kind of workplace. We seldom wear suits there.”

“That’s one of the tricks,” Rowland said.

“Tricks?”

“To look busy. He keep one sport coat on the back of your chair, or on a coat rack. Makes you look like you are always in your office. Also, if you should leave a cup of half-drunk coffee on your desk at all times, it looks like you’ve been working hard.”

I laughed at the time, but it got me wondering about these sneaky little techniques. So, I did an online search on ways to look busy without really working and I’ll be damned if my co-worker hadn’t been doing most of them.

 

Rule one: always look as if you are in a hurry.

Rule: two: sigh a lot; feign exhaustion.

Rule three: carry a notepad with you.

Rule four: constantly remind people of how busy you are.

Rule five: keep your office light on at all times.

There was a lot of advice online, stuff that the guy had probably written himself. 

In Working in Japan Tags How to pretend you are busy., Working at a Japanese University
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How Not to Get Hired in Japan

May 6, 2018

Ms. Suzuki couldn’t have been more explicit about being on time. “You cannot be late,” she said at the end of last week’s interview. “Not even once.”

I had arrived twenty minutes late for it. What can I say for myself? I’m human and, well, stuff happens.

“I do not tolerate sloppiness or tardiness,” she said. “Is that understood?”

“It is.”

“Your boss told me that you were often late.”

The bastard!

I admitted that I might have been late a few times over the course of the year. But often? No, no, no. That was an exaggeration. “Did my boss inform you that he had me travelling all over Kitakyūshū in the rain, sleet, and snow? Yes, I may have been a few minutes late every now and then, but I always overcompensated by staying . . .”

“Well, I won’t tolerate you being late even a few minutes,” she said. “Is that clear, Peadar?”

“Crystal.”

“Can you promise me that you won’t be late?”

“I can,” I answered wearily.

“Then I’d like you to come again next week. And be there by nine sharp.” 

“Nine o’clock sharp,” I said, writing the time down in my day planner. “I will be there. You can counton me.”

And yet here I am, and it’s two minutes of nine when the train pulls into the station. I’m one missed step from getting sacked even before I’ve been officially hired.

My intestines do a somersault as I step onto the platform. I really should head straight for the restroom, but time’s not on my side.

If only I hadn’t taken the slow train. If only I had made the connection. If only . . .

Twenty-six years old and my life is already a litany of regrets.

 

Climbing up out of the subway station, my gut calms somewhat, giving me a reprieve. It’s the first bit of luck I’ve had all morning and so I quicken my pace, but not too fast. Heaven forbid I jump-start my bowels into peristalsis.

A few minutes later and short-winded, I stand before the foot of the stairs that lead to my next place of employment: The American School. After catching my breath, I climb the steps and introduce myself to a dour young woman sitting behind the counter. She says that Suzuki-senseihasn’t arrived yet and, gesturing toward the next room, tells me in to take a seat and wait.

Plopping down on a shit-brown vinyl sofa in the lobby, I thank my lucky stars that I managed to get here before the president of the school.

The American School is a bit larger than the dismal little eikaiwa[1]I’ve been slaving away at for the last twelve months, but no less bleak. Like a dozen other private English schools in the city, many of which I’ve had the “pleasure” to visit for interviews before Suzuki finally called me back, there are the usual weathered stencils on the window declaring it to be an “English ConversationSchool”. There are classes for children and adults. Students, a sign states, may enroll at any time.

There are chalkboards instead of the more common white boards. In the largest of the school’s four classrooms small desks are arranged in a circle. The walls are decorated with the kinds of cheap posters you find at a teaching supply store in the States, and photos cut out of magazines. The lobby has been furnished with secondhand furniture. The sofa I’m sitting was, I imagine, once in Suzuki’s own living room.

It is, in short, an uninspiring place. If the schedule weren’t so ridiculously easy—only two or three classes a day compared to the five or six that have been teaching—I might have taken up employment at Yeehaw! English School, instead.

Being paid more to work less, that’s what this gig amounts to. As intractable as the dreariness hanging in the school’s air is, that is still a song I can dance to. Better still, I’ll have a boss who seems to know what she’s doing, rather than the moron who clutches at straws just to keep from going bankrupt every month.

Even if the expiration date of my visa weren’t bearing down on me, I tell myself, I would still leap at Suzuki’s offer.

 

Considering how miserable my first year in Japan has been—after twelve months I’ve emerged heart-broken, humiliated, physically and emotionally exhausted, not to mention broke—you’d think I’d be ready to return to the States like everyone else I know is. Blame it on misfiring synapses, if you like, but it is precisely because the year’s been so patently awful, that I sit here on a shit-brown vinyl sofa and think with muted optimism: Things can only get better. Things can only get better. Things can only get better.

It’s a congregation of one, of course, that I’ve been preaching to. No one else will listen. Every gaijinI know is going back to his or her home country, including my closest friend in Japan, Ben, the only person who can honestly say that he’s had a fulfilling year.

None of my expat friends mince their words. You must be a masochist to even consider staying another year, they say. Why subjugate yourself to another twelve months of what will surely be more of the same bullshit and hassles, they ask. Like a proselyte whose faith has been challenged, I defend the choice and remind them that I will not only be teaching less but will be living in Fukuoka City rather than godforsaken Kitakyūshū.

I’m not very convincing, though. How do you expect me to be when I can’t even win myself over to my way of thinking?

No, the truth behind my willingness to remain in Japan is an obstinate unwillingness to let go of the thin hope that the woman I love might find it within herself to come back to me.

 

Fifteen minutes pass and still no Suzuki.

So much for the importance of being punctual . . .

 

I’ve been feeling like crap lately, really awful. And today my chest aches from the congestion, my nose dribbles nonstop. Every time I breathe in, the fluid in my lungs rattles like a hookah. And, if that weren’t enough, my stomach has started to act up again. The coffee I had earlier seems to have gone right through me.

Just as I’m about to stand up and inquire about the restrooms, Suzuki arrives. The four-foot-eight powerhouse smiles widely and bellows out a sunny greeting, then disappears into the office. I’d love disappear myself into the restroom, but figure it is best to wait, in spite of my stomach doing flip-flops.

Suzuki gives the girl in the office a big “Ohayō” after which the two chat in hushed voices. With the restroom beckoning, I’m tempted to interrupt but then Suzuki emerges. The broad smile she was wearing when she arrived is now gone.

She directs me to a smaller classroom where we sit across from each other at an old dining room table. She looks down at the document before her, hard nails tapping at the surface of the table. The woman is fuming about something and I haven’t got the courage to ask what about. She looks up from the document, and stares at me through her steel-rimmed glasses. For a woman of such small stature, she comes off as formidable, intimidating, and downright frightening.

She inhales slowly, deeply before speaking. I inhale slowly, shallowly so as to not shock my bowels. I’ve begun to percolate and want nothing more of this world and this woman before me to be excused. Nature has stopped calling; it’s now shouting, imploring me. The way Suzuki is looking at me, however, tells me there’s nothing I can do as my insides churn but try to squeeze my butt-cheeks together.

“In our conversation last week,” she begins, “I made it veryclear that you were notto be late . . .”

“Y-yes, I know.”

“Yes, youknow . . .” She glares at me over the tops of her spectacles. “But, you were late today, weren’t you?”

Jesus Christ, that bitch in the office went and told her I was late.

“Yes, but only . . .”

Oh, Mother of God help me! My bowels have started doing the rumba.

“I have a right mind to tear this contract up and find someone else. It wouldn’t be hard, after all. There are more than enough people out there looking for work.”

And then, Suzuki actually picks up the contract and rips it in half.

What the fuck?

 

 

The shredded contract lies on the tabletop before me and Suzuki has a look on her face like I have wasted her time and, would you just leave. If it wasn’t for the fact that my visa is going to expire in less than a week and I now have no other prospect for employment, I would flip Suzuki and that other bitch in the office the bird and storm out of the building. But I need the job. Good God, do I need ever it.

As Suzuki glares at me, the realization that I’ve made a huge mistake hits me like a kick in the gut and I can’t take it anymore.

“I’m sorry,” I say standing up carefully, “but, I’m feeling very, very ill.”

I dash out of the classroom, pass the lobby and office, and hurry towards a door that has “o-tearai” (honorable hand washing) written in Chinese characters on it. Opening the door and hoping my troubles are over, I discover they’ve only just begun: the school has a fucking Japanese-style squat toilet.

Oh, for the love of God!

Taking a crap on, or should I say aboveone of these toilets is like trying to void your bowels into a shoebox.

In the floor of a slightly raised area is a narrow porcelain trough barely a hand’s length wide. I mount it and squat as well as my stiff Achilles tendons will allow me, but my arse is hovering precariously above my pants gathered at my ankles.

With the forces of nature in motion, I grab onto a large sewage pipe that runs from the ceiling down to the floor and hold on to it for dear life. I then lean back and peer down between my legs like a bombardier might until the target comes into sight. When it does, it’s bombs away!

The collateral damage is worse than expected: half of my payload lands far off target.

Good grief!

 

After I’ve done my business, I spend several minutes tidying the toilet up. No matter how much I wipe the porcelain down, a heavy smell of death hangs in the restroom.

I look in the small cabinet above the toilet, hoping to find a book of matches, but there is none. Next to a few rolls of the rough brown toilet paper I sanded my ass with, I find a can of what, judging by the picture of a field of flowers on it, must be air freshener.

I give the room a liberal spray, and stir up the air with my arms, but an obtrusive hint of ordure lingers stubbornly in the sweet floral fragrance, like a filthy pig lolling about a flower garden.

Several minutes later, I return to the small classroom and apologize to Suzuki. “I’m not feeling very well,” I tell her. “If today’s meeting weren’t as important as it is, I would have cancelled it and suggested meeting later in the week when I was feeling better.”

Suzuki softens somewhat. She’s still visibly irritated, however, with the foul souvenir that has trailed me back into the room, the woman cannot doubt my candor. I am clearly ill.

Just then a shriek comes from the direction of toilet. The young woman in the office has ventured into no-man’s land.

Serves her right.

Suzuki stands up and leaves me alone in the classroom (Could you blame the woman?) and returns a few minutes later with another contract, which she places on the table before me. She asks that I read through it.

As I go through the contract, my jaw drops onto the tabletop. Each item in the contract is written in the bluntest of terminology—namely, do this and you’ll be fired; do that and you’ll be fired. There is no room for mistakes at The American School.

If I am ever late—regardless of illness, accident, ill-timed bowel movements, or what have you—my employment will be terminated on the spot.

I swallow hard and sign the contract. What else do you expect me to do?

Once all the paperwork is complete, Suzuki instructs me to meet her at Immigration next week, the day before my visa expires.

“If you are even a minute late,” she warns, “I will have no choice but to look for someone else. Am I understood?”

“Y-yes, you are.”

“Well, then. See you next week.”[2]

 

I would end up staying with “The American School” for four years. I was never late or absent during my entire time there. The same could not be said of Suzuki-sensei.

 


[1]Aneikawais a private school at which “English conversation” is taught as opposed to the grammar-heavy textbook English taught in most junior and senior high schools. Until about the mid 90s many teachers of English couldn’t actually speak English. With the introduction of ALTs (Assistant Language Teachers from English-speaking countries) at most schools throughout Japan and changes to the curriculum, the ability of both teachers and students has improved remarkably.

[2]Landing My Second Job is excerpted from my loosely autobiographical A Woman’s Nails.

In Life in Japan, Working in Japan Tags Job Hunting in Japan, Job Interview in Japan, Japanese Style Toilet
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