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No-Show-Gatsu

December 16, 2020

In recent years, I have been doing the following activity on the first class after the winter break.

I split the class up into teams and, while listening to traditional Japanese music featuring the koto or shamisen, I have the students write on the blackboard as many words as they can in rōmaji related to the Japanese New Year. 

In addition to being kind of fun—not barrels of fun, mind you, but fun enough—this activity can be rather instructive.

For starters, you'll find that many Japanese students, not being proficient in the Hepburn romanization, will write things such as fukubukuro with an "h" rather than an "f" (hukubukuro) or nengajō with a "y" (nengajyo). The reason for this is that many Japanese learn simpler forms of romanization known as kunrei-shiki or Nihon-shiki. For more on this, go here. This is a good chance to briefly re-introduce the students to the Hepburn romanization and encourage them to use it in the future.

A few years back, my second-year English Communication majors came up with the following words:

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One of the interesting things about this is that while many Japanese students will offer up words like hagoita, a decorative paddle used when playing a game resembling badminton called hanetsuki or even tako-agé (kite-flying), you shouldn't expect to see any of your neighbors playing hanetsuki or flying kites on New Year's Day. (In all my years in Japan, I have never once seen young women in kimono playing this game live as I have in television dramas.)

I then tell the students to ask one another if they had done any of the things on the board.

"Did you eat o-sechi or nana-kusa gayu?"

"Did you decorate your homes with shimenawa and kadomatsu?"

"Did you send any nengajō?"

Of the 23 students who attended that day, twenty had eaten o-sechi, four had a shimenawa at the entrance of their homes, six had gone to the hatsu-uri New Year's sales, eleven had drunk o-toso, and so on. 

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Erasing those items which few or none of the students had partaken of, we came up with the following significantly pared down list:

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Where New Year's in Japan was once a very colorful, tradition-laden event, all that remains of it today, or so it seems, is the food, the shopping, and banal TV programs. Less than half of the students visited one Shintō shrine (hatsumōde), let alone three, during the holiday. It's kind of sad when you think about it. 

Now, I'm not suggesting that we need to put the Shintō back in the Shinnen (New Year), like some good Christians back home demand Christ be kept in that pagan celebration of the winter solstice also known as Christmas. But, I find it odd that the Japanese are so lackadaisical when it comes to their own heritage and culture.

In Japanese Customs, Japanese Festivals, Life in Japan Tags New Year's Traditions, Japanese New Year, o-Shogatsu, Shogatsu, Japanese Romanization, Hepburn Romanization, Kunrei Romanization
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Bud Clark, future Mayor of Portland, OR, in the iconic “Expose Yourself” to Art Poster

Bud Clark, future Mayor of Portland, OR, in the iconic “Expose Yourself” to Art Poster

Exposure

December 8, 2020

On Sunday evening we received an email from the kids’ school informing us that one of the cooks in the kitchen had contracted COVID-19. (Uh-oh.) The school assured us parents that the person in question had had no contact with teachers or students. It also said that the remaining cooking staff had been sent home to quarantine for two weeks. What’s more, professional cleaners had been brought in to disinfect the kitchen and related areas over the weekend. As a result of the steps that had been taken, kids would be able to go to school on Monday with only one change: there would be no apple jam in Monday’s school lunch as the infected person had been in charge of it.

I asked my wife why the school would even bother mentioning the jam.

“Because some petty-minded parent would complain,” she replied. “There was no apple jam in my child’s school lunch!”

True. True.

Now, I wouldn’t say we were on pins and needles about this, but still I was checking my email every now and again to see if a cluster would develop at the school.


Well, late Monday night, we got another email from the school. Fortunately it was about a different kind of exposure.

“What is it,” my wife asked, her voice tense.

Just another pervert, I answered.

“Oh, what a relief!”

In Conversations with Wifey, Family, Life in Japan, Married Life Tags Expose Yourself to Art, Bud Clark, Coronavirus, COVID-19, Raising Kids in Japan, Japanese Elementary School
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Ho, ho, ho, Green Giant!

November 25, 2020

The other day, I was talking to some students about my high school's annual food drive when I explained that we boys would go canvassing for canned veggies and . . . they all gave me an odd, quizzical look.

Canned vegetables? What are canned vegetables.

So, I googled it and showed them some photos of the kind of thing I was talking about. It was only then that it dawned on me that after all these years in Japan, I don't think I have eaten many vegetables that weren't fresh and/or in season.

Take spinach. Yes, please take it.

Growing up in 'Merica, spinach was a common side dish on many dinner plates, but I don't think I ever saw raw spinach until I came here. It had always been canned or frozen when I was a kid.

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Another staple veggie is peas and carrots. I've never had this here. And I thank my lucky stars because of it.

Now, I often grumble that the selection of fruits and vegetables at my local supermarket leaves much to be desired. (I was looking at a wimpy, woebegone pomegranate at the supermarket yesterday that was selling for almost ten bucks and thought nope.) But, what you can find here is fresh, usually locally grown, and of high quality. If only I could find a lime that didn't cost two bucks.

Looks awful.

Looks awful.

In Life in Japan, Life in the US, Japanese Cooking Tags Canned Vegetables, Cooking in the US, Frozen Food
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Umm

September 9, 2020
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In Life in Japan Tags Japanese Traffic Signals
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Mitama Matsuri

August 16, 2020

Gokoku Jinja holds a special place in my heart. It was, in fact, where I was first married. And, though, that first marriage could hardly be called a success (My second marriage in a Christian church in Honolulu has fared much better), I still have many fond memories of that wedding day.

The Mimata Matsuri, or the Souls' Festival that is held from the 13th to the 16th at Gokoku Jinja.

Like the similarly named festival at Tōkyō's Yasukuni Shrine, Gokoku's Mitama Matsuri is a festival in honor of those who died in the service of the country. That may sound sinister considering Japan's history, but (at least here in Fukuoka) all this really involves is lanterns being displayed on the grounds of the shrine.

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The first time I discovered the "festival" was about fifteen years ago, during one of my evening jogs. Seeing the lanterns, I took a detour and headed into the shrine. There were only a handful of people milling about, but the lanterns must have numbered in the tens of thousands. It was awe-inspiring.

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In recent years, the shrine has tried with a modicum success to attract more visitors by offering concerts, food stalls, and other attractions. Unfortunately, the number of lanterns steadily falls year by year and the feeling of awe that struck me the first time has become tempered with disappointment.

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Seventy-five years have passed since the end of World War II and those who participated in it are now in their 90s and older, if still alive. Those who lost parents, children, siblings, or spouses in the war, people who'd be most inclined to keep a lantern burning for the souls of loved ones, are even older, more infirm (again, if alive). My own Japanese grandmother, who died about five years ago, lost her husband in the war. The more that time passes since the end of hostilities in the Pacific, the easier it is for me to imagine that the yearly calls of "Never again" might one day become too faint to prevent another destructive war. Just a thought.

Fidelium animae, per misericordiam Dei, requiescant in pace. Amen.

Eternal rest grant unto them, O Lord, and let perpetual light shine upon them. May the souls of the faithful departed, through the mercy of God, rest in peace. Amen.

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Note: "The origin of Yasukuni Shrine is Shokonsha established at Kudan in Tōkyō in the second year of the Meiji era (1869) by the will of the Emperor Meiji. In 1879, it was renamed Yasukuni Shrine.

"When the Emperor Meiji visited Tōkyō Shōkonsha for the first time on January 27 in 1874, he composed a poem; "I assure those of you who fought and died for your country that your names will live forever at this shrine in Musashino". As can be seen in this poem, Yasukuni Shrine was established to commemorate and honor the achievement of those who dedicated their precious lives for their country. The name "Yasukuni," given by the Emperor Meiji represents wishes for preserving peace of the nation.

"Currently, more than 2,466,000 divinities are enshrined here at Yasukuni Shrine."

-- From Yasukuni's official home page




In Family, Japanese Customs, Japanese Festivals, Life in Japan, Summer in Japan Tags 御霊祭, MitamaMatsuri, 護国神社, Mitama, Yasukuni Shrine, Gokoku Shrine
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Where would I be today?

February 5, 2020

While we were in Portland in the summer of 2018, my wife asked me where I would be if I had never come to Japan two and a half decades ago. Boy, what a question.

“I dunno,” I answered after a moment’s silence. “I really don’t.”

But ruminating on that question for the next few days, I came to a number of conclusions.

For starters, in that alternate universe where I remained in the U.S., I would most likely weigh twice as much as I do now. (And so, would my wife, whoever she might be. And I would love her to pieces all the same and never eversuggest she go on a diet, because, heaven forbid, I wouldn’t want to “fat-shame” the love of my life.)

I’d probably have somewhat maladjusted, yet overly confident kids. Although there would a perceptible gap between their inflated self-esteem and actual abilities, Daddy would never be able to tell them that. Wouldn’t want to prick a hole in that optimistic bubble of theirs. “Self-esteem above all” could be another motto for America.

Japanese kids, I find, tend to be more modest (and perhaps realistic) when assessing their own capabilities; the parents more demanding. Ask a Japanese girl if she can play the piano and she might with some coaxing say, “Yes, a little” only to go on and perform Chopin’s “Nocturne in C Minor”. An American boy will boast that he was pretty good at the piano and then bang out “Chopsticks”.

Those alternate universe children of mine would probably be in college by now (rather than in elementary school) and I would be worrying myself sick (not to mention bald) as I struggled to pay the extortionate price of tuition there.

I’d have a mortgage double what I currently pay in rent. On the plus side, though, I would have: a large yard maintained by Hispanic immigrants, rather than a berandā cluttered with drying laundry and recycle bins; a gorgeous kitchen (that seldom got used); and loads of storage space filled up with useless crap. I’d have a car—perhaps three—instead of a bicycle, and I would be driving everywhere instead of walking, cycling, or taking public transportation as I do now.

As a result of all that driving, I wouldn’t be nearly as fit and healthy. And speaking of health, I would be paying through the nose for mediocre healthcare insurance and be on my knees praying to my Catholic God that I never get sick and actually have to use that insurance.

Because of the running costs of being an American are much higher than those of living as an expat in Japan, that alternate universe doppelganger of mine would probably be one more of that hapless class of Yanks who are considered house-rich, but cash poor.

I would probably have a more relaxed work schedule, though. I would finish early enough to have dinner with my family in the evenings. Eating together as a family just doesn’t register as importantly here as it does in America. Weekends would as a rule be off. (I have always worked on Saturdays ever since coming to Japan, even when my head was screaming with a hangover.) On the other hand, I wouldn’t be able to take as many long vacations as I do now which I hope compensates for the back-breaking sixty-hour work weeks.

I guess I’d be tossing good money after bad in the Catholic Church’s offertory on Sunday mornings rather than pocket change into the saisen bako at my local shrine. My parallel universe kids would have been raised Catholic out of inertia more than any deep-seated feelings towards the religious tradition I was steeped in. Meanwhile, my flesh-and-blood sons’ views towards faith, if they have any at this stage in their lives, are more syncretic—a blending of Buddhism and Shintō with hints of Christianity (and Santa Claus-ism). How they will eventually be able to resolve these mutually contradictory beliefs in no god, eight million gods, and One Almighty, Omniscient Father in Heaven, is anyone’s guess. I really don’t care so long as they don’t end up boring me and others with their beliefs.

I suspect I would have continued writing no matter where I settled or what kind of career path I took, but I may have had more access to people in the business had I remained in the States than I do today like a literary castaway in Japan. What I would have ended up writing, however, is anyone’s guess. One thing is for sure, my writing would never have been influenced by Japanese aesthetics and literature.

I wouldn’t have become as keenly attuned to things like the changes in the seasons as I am today. And I’m not just talking about the flowers and foliage, but the insects and the noises they make, the winds and their names, and all the different rains, the seasonal delicacies such as the pungent smell of sanma (Pacific saury) being cooked on the grill and filling the house with oily smoke in autumn. I would not have learned that the year can be divided up into more than just four seasons. The East Asian lunisolar calendar has 24 points, with each divided into a further 3, giving 72 kō (候), or micro seasons, in a year. As I write this, we are experiencing the 49th micro season, Kōgan Kitaru, “The Geese Arrive”.

I would not have been exposed to Japanese literature, film and art, which has definitely influenced my sensibilities. Likewise, I would have never experienced teaching Japanese literature and culture to students from all over the globe at the university level. (How on earth did that happen?) It is through this study that I have learned more about Japanese history, culture, language, art, literature—you name it—than I could have ever imagined possible.

I wouldn’t have traveled throughout Japan and come to fall in love with some of her regions—Kyōto, yes, but also Kagoshima, Kamakura, and Okinawa. Oh, Okinawa! What would my life be like today without traditional Okinawan music or the local firewater, awamori, in it? Bland!

And speaking of saké, had I never come to Japan, I may not have ever been exposed to shōchū, a drink distilled from a wide variety of ingredients depending upon the region, from saké lees in Saga and sweet potatoes in Kagoshima, to barley in Ōita and sesame seeds in Fukuoka. In the alternate universe, I am drinking local microbrews and wine and thinking the world of it. Ignorance is bliss.

Had I never “immigrated” to Japan, I wouldn’t have traveled around Asia nearly as much or become as familiar with the region’s cultures and languages. For my friends back in the States, traveling to, say, Vietnam is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that must be documented on Facebook and Instagram. For us in Fukuoka, though, it’s just a five-hour flight away. Shanghai is closer than Tōkyō for us; Seoul, less than an hour’s flight; and, Taipei and Hong Kong, about two to two and a half hours away. Europe is, of course, much farther, but no more remote than it was when I was living on the West Coast of the U.S.

Had I never come to Japan, I wouldn’t have a national holiday or local festival to look forward to every few weeks. In the past month alone, we had Music City Tenjin, a free outdoor music event downtown, the equinoctial week which happened to coincide with the moon-viewing festival Jūgoya, Oktoberfest—yes, complete with lederhosen and yodeling—Shinkōsai, a six-day long Shintō festival with lanterns held at Dazaifu Tenmangū shrine, another Shintō festival at Kushida Shrine called Hakata Okunchi, a number of light-up and lantern events in late October, and the 3-day long Kunchi festival in Karatsu City held around Culture Day on November 3rd. I could go on and on. I used to get so depressed when Christmas came to an end as there was very little but darkness separating that very festive time of year and Easter in America. Here in Japan, though, Christmas is followed by New Year’s which is just as merry, if not more, and lasts five days rather than only one. And right on the heels of o-Shōgatsu is Seijin no Hi, or Coming-of-Age-Day, when twenty-year-old women dressed up in elaborate kimono are a feast for the eyes. And that is followed by Setsubu, which is followed by . . . Well, you get the picture.

And though you don’t need to be patient when it comes to waiting for the next holiday or festival, thanks to my coming to Japan I have learned to be patient and courteous (I hope) towards others, never raising my voice or bursting out in anger. Do I ever get irritated? You bet! On a daily basis, no less. But, I have mastered the Art of Gaman and seldom let my feelings get the better of me anymore. People sometimes say I am a cold bastard, that emotion doesn’t register in my face anymore, and perhaps that’s true. I certainly don’t smile as much, or as naturally, as I did before. But, I would never explode in a fit of apoplexy over something so inconsequential as a parking space, either.

What else? Like many of those interviewed, I am more punctual than I imagine I ever could have been had I never moved to Japan. I am more detail-oriented. I’m more honest, too. If I found a cash-filled wallet on the street, I would take it to the nearest police box because that’s just what you do in Japan.

 

So, the short answer to my wife’s question is this: I wouldn’t be me had I never come to Japan. But more importantly than that, I wouldn’t have found my wife who I adore. I wouldn’t have had my two sons who fill me with so much love and pride, yet manage to run me into the ground all the same. I just wouldn’t be me.

In Family, Life in America, Life in Japan, Writing Life Tags Portland, Living in Japan, Leaving Japan, Expat Life in Japan
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This is Sparta

November 19, 2019

This weekend the local boy scout troop is doing their annual overnight Bataan Death March: elementary boys (and girls as the scouts here are open to both sexes) will be marching 30km; junior high schoolers, 60 km; and high schoolers, 100km.

Out of curiosity I checked what kind of mileage a Marine recruit puts in over his 13-week-long bootcamp and came up with about 200 miles (320km), which is nothing compared to what these Japanese kids are doing in one night.

Welcome to Sparta!

Note: Looked into the “Bataan Death March” and learned that, one, it was about 100 km long, give or take 5 kilos, two, half of it wasn't on foot, but in rail cars, and, three, it took place over a period of about three days. It always sounded like hell on earth to me—and I'm sure it wasn't easy (heat, lack of potable water)—but, geez, little Japanese boys and girls here are doing it overnight with little more than a water bottle and a couple of o-nigiri. These kids are tough!

In Family, Life in Japan, Raising Kids in Japan Tags Boy Scouts in Japan, Naraigoto
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Yamakasa, 2019

July 16, 2019
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In Life in Fukuoka, Life in Japan, Japanese Festivals Tags Yamakasa, 博多祇園山笠, 山笠
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MakuJobbu

May 2, 2019

The other day I overheard a student of mine mention that she was a manager at the McDonald’s where she was working.

“A manager? Really?” I said. “But you’re only, what, eighteen?”

“I just turned nineteen.”

“How long have you been working there?”

She replied that it was her fourth year at the hamburger joint, that she had started in her first year of high school when she was fifteen, something that also surprised me as very few high schools allow their students to work. I know what you’re thinking, whose business is it whether a student has a part-time job or not? In Japan, the teachers tend to make it their business. They want their charges focused on little else than their studies. (We can discuss the wisdom of such rules later.)

“And how long have you been manager?” I asked.

“Only a few months.”

She went on to explain that of the sixty to seventy employees at her restaurant (if you can call a Mickey Dees one), there were fifteen managers, all of whom were “part-timers”. Part-timers in the Japanese sense of the word meaning that they are not full-fledged employees of the McDonald’s Japan Corporation with bennies rather than someone working less than thirty-two hours a week. This particular woman was currently working six days a week for a total of about thirty-four or so hours each week. During the summer break she put in over forty hours a week.

“How many ‘full-fledged employees’ (正社員, seishain) are there at your branch?”

“Just one, the store manager (店長, tenchō),” she answered.

I once knew a twenty-something-year-old woman who was one of these tenchōs. The sweetest, most unassuming woman you could ever meet, she was managing what was one of Japan’s busiest branches. It wasn’t unusual for her to remain at work until four in the morning, go home, sleep a few hours, then return the next morning to do it all over again. Her dream was to work at Hamburger University, a training facility run by McDonald’s Corporation, and for all I know, she may be working there now.

I continued to badger my student about the details of her work and learned that when she first started working she earned ¥700 ($6.70) an hour, but after a few months was bumped up to ¥720 ($6.90). As manager she now earns ¥750 ($7.19) an hour, considerably less than the $8-15 per hour an “hourly manager” can make in the States, but then she is able to keep 90% or more of her income due to the low level of taxation on part-time work here. Her counterpart in the U.S. might see some 30% of his income withheld in the form of payroll and other taxes.

As manager, she is responsible for overseeing the shift, training new employees, managing the money, and dealing with customer complaints.

“I like the job,” she told me, but admitted that the customers can be insufferably petty at times.

In Life in Japan, Teaching Life, Trends in Japan Tags McDonald's Japan, Part-time work in Japan, Working at McDonald's, McJob
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What took you so long?

April 28, 2019

“Why do you think you ended up staying so long in Japan?” Azami asks.

I have my pet theories; the top contender being this: to discover, à la Breakfast of Champions, how much a man can take before he ends up hanging himself.

“Hmm.”

“I think the reason you came to Japan,” she says, “was to meet me. Don’t you think so, too?”

Who knows? Maybe she is right. Then again, maybe she is wrong. Even if she were right, what would my coming to Japan have meant to all the other women I met along the way? Did I come to Japan to meet them, as well?

I give Azami a noncommittal shrug.

“You came here to meet me,” she continues with such confidence it’s hard to disagree. “Waited ten years, teaching all that time, so that you could learn what you really wanted and find the person you really needed.”

Well, at least she is convinced and that has to count for something, I suppose.

I’ve long had the gut feeling that existence is basically meaningless. No rhyme or reason to it all. But, humans being human can’t help trying to assign meaning and order to their otherwise chaotic, random lives and interpret life’s happenings with some kind of bias, be it religious, mythical, or philosophical. There is nothing wrong with that if it brings you closer to your “bliss”. A decade, though, is an awfully long time to look for someone, even someone like Azami.

“Ten years,” I say with an exaggerated grimace. “Why’d you make me wait so goddamn long?”

“Me?”

“Yeah, you. If we were meant to be together, why then didn’t you come around sooner, say, when you were still a freshman in high school? I wasn’t getting any younger, you know.”

In Life in Japan, Married Life Tags Dating, Dating Japanese Women, Japanese Women
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The Azaleas of Daikozen-ji

April 27, 2019

There really isn't a better time to visit Japan than the spring. During the first half of the year, a series of flowers bloom in a fashion as orderly as the Japanese themselves: narcissus and camellia in January; ume (plum) blossoms in February; peach blossoms and magnolias in March; sakura (cherry) blossoms in late March or early April, depending on the weather; wisteria, azaleas, and peonies around Golden Week (late April to early May); hydrangea from late May; irises in June, and so on.

Before coming to Japan I couldn't have identified a peony had my life depended upon it, but two decades on I'm practically a botanist. Much of my knowledge of the flora Japanica has come to me passively, through dating women who either taught, or were learning, ikebana (flower arrangement). The rest has been filled in by students, many of whom are invariably trotting off to, say, Mount Kuju to view the wild azaleas in June, foraging their local woods for horsetails and bamboo shoots in early spring, or joining tours to see a famous, centuries old sakura tree. (Seriously.)

I must be turning Japanese, because I too willingly (and gleefully) partake in these flower-viewing festivities. A few years ago I even traveled to the Daikôzen temple (大興善寺) in Kiyama, Saga prefecture just to see the azaleas (ツツジ, tsutsuji) there.

I need a life.

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In Spring in Japan, Life in Japan Tags 大興善寺, Daikozenji, Daikōzen-ji, Azaleas, Tsutsuji, ツツジ
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Cleaning Ladies

April 18, 2019

There’s 30 minutes left of class when nature calls. I consider holding it, but I know that if I do I’ll end up spending the last five minutes of the lesson squirming rather teaching. And besides the restrooms are only a few steps away. I could be there and back in less than 30 seconds.

So, I excuse myself . . .

Outside the restroom is a yellow slippery when wet sign and a cleaning lady’s cart. I pop in anyways only to find a youngish cleaning woman scrubbing down a urinal.

Pass!

If it were an old lady, I probably wouldn’t have been so shy, but . . . Well, you know.

So, I backpedal out the restroom and run down a flight of stairs to the fourth floor where I find another slippery when wet sign and another cleaning lady going about her business.

Curses!

Back out and down another flight of stairs and—dammit—another cleaning lady.

Second floor it's the same—This is getting fucking ridiculous—I jump in an elevator and go up to the sixth floor and, dammit, same deal. So, I hump up a flight of stairs to the seventh floor where—Praise the Lord!—there’s finally no cleaning lady and not a minute too soon.

The building at this uni is brand spanking new and spotless. After this morning’s game of cat and mouse, it’s no wonder why.

Keep up the good work, ladies, but please give me a heads up next time.

In Teaching Life, Life in Japan Tags Japanese Toilets, Cleaning Ladies
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High Time for Summer Time

April 14, 2019

When I woke this morning, my bedroom was bathed in warm sunlight. It was not yet six in the morning and the sun was already peeking over the neighboring buildings and coming in through the windows.
“What a waste,” I thought as I crawled out of my futon.

Japan is not what I would call a morning country. Coffee shops and sports clubs don’t open until 7 or 8am at the earliest. Many of the better bakeries are still closed at 9:30am, and few restaurants bother to serve the most important meal of the day, breakfast. Contrast that with the US where you can work out at the gym from five in the morning and then promptly nullify the benefits of all that iron-pumping by gorging yourself on blueberry pancakes and bacon by six.

And yet, as the nation’s salarymen cover their heads with their pillows and try to sleep off their hangovers, the sun has been shining for two, three, and as many as four hours. This morning in Kyushu, for instance, the sun rose at 5:10am. In Tokyo, daybreak was at 4:27am. And, in Sapporo, dawn cracked at a remarkable 3:59am (around the summer solstice, sunrise comes as early as 3:30am): which begs the question: why doesn’t Japan have two time zones?

But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. First thing’s first: Japan needs to re-adopt daylight-saving time (DST).

Re-adopt, you ask?

During the American occupation, Japan did observe DST for a spell, but abandoned it in 1951 when MacArthur left. For the average Japanese in those post-war years the extra hour of daylight in the evening equated to little more than an extra hour of labor.

But that was then and this is now.

With all fifty-four of the nation’s nuclear power plants idled indefinitely, Japan faces the daunting task of not only producing enough electricity, but also bringing consumption down during the summer months—precisely at the time when energy demand usually peaks. Failure to do so may lead to a repeat of the disruptive blackouts that plagued Japan last summer when the nation still had eleven nuclear reactors online. Daylight-saving time, specifically “double summer time,” may provide the answer.

While the energy-saving benefits of DST remain a contentious issue in the West, an interesting study conducted at the Toyohashi University of Technology by Wee-Kean Fong (Energy Savings Potential of the Summer Time Concept in Different Regions of Japan From the Perspective of Household Lighting; 2007) has shown that the implementation of a “split summer time”—whereby the southwestern half of the country moves its clocks an hour forward in April and the northeastern half of Japan, two—that is, double summer time—could provide considerable savings in energy consumption.

Were double summertime adopted, the Sapparo sun would rise at 5:59am and set at 9:05pm, providing plenty of sunlight when it is most needed. The benefits of DST, however, wouldn’t end there. According to the October 28, 2010 issue of The Economist, “adopting DST would mean a new dawn for the Japanese economy . . . boost[ing] domestic consumption, as people leave work for bars, restaurants, shopping and golf. Summer time is credited with reducing traffic accidents and crime; boosting energy efficiency as people use less lighting and heating; and even improving health as people are radiated with vitamin D.” The economic benefit, the article continues, could add as much as ¥1.2 trillion (USD $15 billion) to Japan’s GDP and generate 100,000 jobs.

Coming from America’s northwest where the sun sets as late as nine in the evening during the summer, I don’t need to be sold on the benefits of daylight-saving time. Summers, thanks to a simple biannual adjustment of the clock, have always been a time for late evening barbecues with family, twilight concerts in the parks, and relaxed meals at outdoor cafes with friends. The challenge, however, lies in convincing the average Japanese that, in addition to the conservation benefits of extra sunlight in the evening, DST could mean a better quality of life, not just more work.

Until then, all that beautiful sunlight will continue to go to be squandered. Mottai nai!


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This was originally published in Metropolis, but the bastards removed my byline, so I have reclaimed it.

In Japanese History, Life in Japan, Life in the US Tags Daylight Saving Time, Summer Time, Summer in Japan, Time Zones
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Naraigoto IMG_0240.jpg

Gotta Naraigoto

March 18, 2019

Ask a group of Japanese under the age of, say, thirty-five if they'd had lessons—what the Japanese call narai goto or o-keiko—when they were young, and you'll probably find most, if not all, did. Having been in the Eikaiwa (English conversation) trade for many years and having personally taught many preschool and elementary school aged children, I know from experience that Japanese children maintain schedules that would have American kids on their knees, crying, "Uncle!"

The whole business of training, cultivating, and educating children would be interesting to research some day. In the meantime, here are the results of a half-arsed survey I did the other day.

Of the twenty university sophomores (18♀/2♂) that I surveyed, 17 had had lessons of some kind before starting elementary school. By the time they had enrolled in elementary school, all of them were taking some kind of lesson. The most popular lessons were piano (15), swimming (13), calligraphy (11), and English and cram school, i.e. juku (10). Asked if they would also send their own children to these kinds of lessons, 19 said yes. The type and number of lessons they would like their children to take, however, changed.

I've long been interested in knowing not only what people studied and when, but also whether they feel they had benefitted from the lessons and whether they would do the same for their own children. Most, it appears, feel they did and would make their future children do likewise. 

As a father myself the time will come soon enough when I will be forced to decide if I will make my own son take these kinds of lessons and what I will have him study. I am already leaning towards lessons in a third language, guitar, calligraphy, soccer, abacus, and swimming. The poor kid.

I originally wrote this blog post back in 2011 when my elder son was only a year old. Now that he is almost nine, I can say that the third language probably won’t happen until high school—getting the boys to be bilingual is hard work enough—musical lessons won’t happen unless they decide to pick something up themselves. Calligraphy? What was I thinking? That said, the older boy has nice handwriting thanks to his mother’s constant berating. The final three narai goto have worked out alright. The boys love soccer and have played on “teams” for several years now. Abacus, or soroban, can’t be more highly recommended. As for swimming, with their tight schedules it’s hard to put them in regular lessons, so we drop them off at intensive courses every long holiday. In addition to those, the boys have been doing karate two to four times a week. They also have English lessons with Daddy a few times a week.

In Family, Life in Japan, Parenting, Raising Kids in Japan Tags Raising Kids in Japan, Raising Kids, Naraigoto, Early Childhood Education, 習い事, Extra-curricular Activities
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Mugen IMG_2883.jpg

Unlimited

March 15, 2019

無限の可能性
Unlimited Possibilities 


As I watch my boys grow, one of the things I often hear them say is “Daddy, I can now do this or that!” It doesn’t matter if it’s their studies or sports, they are constantly developing, maturing, getting better, learning, playing, mastering new things.

As I age, I find the opposite is true. There are things I can no longer do or, worse, things I think I am no longer capable of doing. Negativity is part of aging and to fight it I need to be more positive. Not in a silly Pollyannic way, but in a way that is rooted in reality. The possibilities may not be unlimited, but they are still there if you have an open mind and are willing to push yourself to try new things. Visiting this shrine in Kyōto reminded me of that.

Fifty, shmifty. I can do it. 

In Japanese Language, Life in Japan, Raising Kids in Japan Tags Aging, Raising Kids in Japan, Raising Kids
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Fukuoka Castles.60D.jpg

Fresh Coat

March 15, 2019

Went running around Fukuoka Castle to check on the cherry blossoms—not yet—and noticed that parts of the castle have been given a fresh coat of paint recently. Seems the city is finally putting some money into park maintenance. The arched bridge just below this yagura (turret) is also being rebuilt as is the iris garden.

I don’t think the city would have bothered if inbound tourism hadn’t exploded as it has these past few years.

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In Life in Fukuoka, Life in Japan, Japanese Architecture Tags Fukuoka, Fukuoka Castle
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Fufu+Bessei.jpeg

Fufu Bessei

March 5, 2019

Ask a simple question—i.e. “If you are a foreigner currently or formerly married to a Japanese citizen, did your spouse keep his/her Japanese family name after getting married to you?”)—and you will surely get an angry reply like this:

"I was married to a Japanese man, and yes - he kept his name. You seem to be assuming that the only people who marry foriengers are Japanese WOMEN. I happen to be a foreign woman who married a Japanese man. I kept my name because it's my name - why would I change it? Women don't "belong" to their husband; why should they change their name?"


Ugh. I wasn't assume anything. And why do you assume that as a man I was assuming something? Sheesh.

Statistically, Japanese men are far more likely to marry foreign women than Japanese women. This is something I have known for years. They tend, however, to marry other Asian women (Chinese, Filipino, Korean, Thai, etc.). Japanese women, on the other hand, marry in decreasing order Koreans, Americans, Chinese, British nationals, and so on.

What I am trying to look into—again, no assumptions; that’s why I’m asking—is what motivates people (particularly Japanese women) to either keep their Japanese maiden name or take their husband's upon marriage to a foreigner. Also, what motivates foreign men/women to adopt their Japanese spouse’s family name?

Ultimately, what I want to look at is what family name Western parents of half-Japanese children (i.e. children who are likely to look "half") are choosing for their kids and what motivates it. I also want to know what challenges, if any, they may have had if they had chosen the Western family name. 

One of my friends is half Japanese/half American, but looks for the most part like a Japanese man. Since his wife is Japanese, their children look, as you would suspect, Japanese. But, they all have his American family name written in katakana on their name tags at school. Whenever they change schools/grades and are introduced to new classmates, everyone is surprised by how good their Japanese is. Seeing the American name, the other kids brains assume the kids are 100% American rather than 75% Japanese. 

As for my own children, they look very . . . hard to say. They don't look Japanese at all, but they speak Hakata-ben and have my wife's family name. Wherever we go, people look at the boys and start speaking in broken English to them. 

Here are some stats on "international marriage": http://www.lifeaaa.jp/27.html

If you are a foreign resident in Japan who is married to a Japanese national, please have a look at this short survey at Survey Monkey.



In Life in Japan, Married Life, Raising Kids in Japan Tags Survey, fufu bessei, 夫婦別姓, Adopting a Japanese Family Name
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Ichi Ban DSC02957.jpg

1 Bangai Cafe & Shisha

March 4, 2019

I wrote the following in 2012, a lifetime ago, when I was employed at a women’s college and enjoyed a generous “research budget” that allowed me to travel about once every two or three months. Early on, I spent a lot of time in Tokyo, so much so people there assumed I lived there.

Stumbling across a restaurant which served Uighur cuisine of all things, it occurred to me that Tōkyō might have just about everything a person could ever want. So, I googled "Lebanese restaurant Tokyo" and, lo and behold, discovered that there were two: Sindbad in Nishi Shinjuku and My Lebanon in Ebisu Nishi. (My Lebanon has since closed and Sindbad which had moved to Akasaka after some 17 years in Shinjuku and closed its doors around 2017, I think.)

As I was closer to Sindbad, I made my way to Shinjuku, guided mercifully by GoogleMap. The food was alright, but best of all was the Almaza beer which they served nice and cold and the arak. 

Ice cold beer might be all the rage this summer in Japan—I've even got two new shops (Kirin's Frozen Garden and Asahi Extra Cold) just down the street from my apartment—but the Lebanese have been serving their Almaza that way for years. Sometimes the bottles will even come with chucks of ice still frozen to the outside of them. When the wind stops blowing in off of the Mediterranean and the sun burns down, nothing quite fights off the heat like an Almaza.

Drinking Lebanese beer and arak, I started itching to smoke a narghile. Although I have my own pipe at home, it's a hassle to assemble and clean it. (I also don't like to smoke in front of my son who has taken to imitating whatever Daddy does.)

So, I did another GoogleMap search of mizu tabako (水たばこ) and shisha (シーシャ) and found a promising shop in Shimo Kitazawa. When I told my friend later that day that I had spent the afternoon in that neighborhood of Setagaya Ward, she was impressed that I had come to know Tōkyō so well.

I didn't and don't. It was all GoogleMap.

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There weren't any customers when I arrived at the “cafe”. But then, I hadn't been expecting the place to be packed.

I asked if it was okay to sit outside and was shown a icebox—yes, and icebox—to sit on. Not the most comfortable of seating arrangments, but since I had been walking for almost six hours that day it was nice to finally take a load off.

I ordered two-apples tobacco, possibly the most commonly smoked flavor in the Middle East, and a beer.

The cafe is located in one of the back streets of Shimo Kitazawa, a neighborhood which reminded me of my own neighborhood of Daimyō: lots of small shops, boutiques, restaurants and cafes along narrow, meandering roads. It's an area I'd definitely like to return to and explore when I have more time.

Ichi Ban DSC02954.jpg

Before long, my narghile came. The manager of the shop sat down beside me and had a smoke himself. 

“Is it always this quiet,” I asked.

“Depends,” he replied. 

He asked me where I was from. “The States,” I said, “but I've been living in Hakata for twenty years.”

One of the funny things about Fukuoka is that many people outside of, say, the western half of Japan don't quite know where it is. I suppose that's because there are a number of other prefectures and cities with similar names—Fukushima, Fukui, Fukuyama, to name a few. But tell someone you're from Hakata, the old name of the city, and they'll know right away. So much of what makes Fukuoka famous—the food, the dialect, the festivals, the souvenirs—have Hakata before them: Hakata motsunabe (a spicy dish of stewed pork or beef offal), Hakata-ben (the local dialect), Hakata Gion Yamakasa (our summer festival held in July) and Hakata Karashi Mentai (spicy cod roe, originally from Korea), and so on.

The other thing Hakata is famous for is the Hakata Bijin, or Hakata beauty. Women from Hakata (Fukuoka, and by extension Kyūshū) have a reputation for being good-looking. Having traveled all over this country, I can say from experience that the reputation is earned. The women are better-looking here than in any other parts of Japan. (I still haven't been to Tôhoku or Hokkaidô, though.)

The manager told me that his own girlfriend was from Fukuoka and he thought she was pretty darn cute the first time they met.

It's the mixing of blood, I explained. Fukuoka has long been a place where people from different parts of Asia, Kyūshū and other parts of Japan converged. All that comingling of DNA has been very good for the looks of the women. It might also be one reason why so many tarento (TV personalities and performers) hail from Fukuoka.

Ichi Ban DSC02953.JPG

And speaking of beauties, two young women dropped into the shop as we were chatting. Not long after they arrived, the little cafe filled up rather quickly. Two Saudis, a father and a son, eventually took the seat besides me and we chatted for an hour. The father was a professor of engineering in Riyad, his son was studying at a university in Tōkyō. Both were very nice.

After they left, the two young women came out and sat besides me and struck up a conversation. The better looking of the two (seated on the right) came from Hokkaidō originally. If she is any indication of how the women look on that northern island, I can understand how the men are able to endure the cold winters.

Ichi Ban DSC02952.jpg

After about two and a half hours, it was time for me to go meet a friend. I bid my farewell to the women and to the manager, promising to visit again when I was next in Tōkyō.

Of all the places I visited during my three-day stay 1 Bangai Cafe & Shisha was the friendliest and the easiest place to meet new people. I'll be back.

And back I did go. Whenever I visit Tōkyō, I spend at least one afternoon at 1 Bangai Cafe, smoking outside and watching the people go by. It’s my second

In Life in Japan, Travel Tags 1 Bangai Cafe & Shisha, Shimokitazawa, 下北沢, シーシャ, Shisha, Narghile, Hookah, 水タバコ
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neon.jpg

Easy-peasy

March 4, 2019

Every day I hear Japanese complain, “Eigo-wa muzukashii.” (English is difficult.)

I suppose for non-native speakers of the language, English can be hard to master. This blessed tongue of mine is a hodgepodge of languages—Germanic, Romance and Celtic—making the spelling and grammar a confused mess that is cumbersome for learners and native speakers alike.

BUT! The Japanese language is so much more muzukashii. Our list of irregular verbs and odd spelling rules can NOT even begin to burden a student the way the Japanese writing system hinders foreigners.

Of the more than five thousand different languages out there in the world, the most difficult one to read is Japanese.

It’s not unusual to find a single sentence chockablock with Hiragana, Katakana, Kanji, Rômaji, and even Arabic numerals. While hiragana, katana, and rômaji are straight-forward enough and can be memorized in less than a week, what really makes Japanese so hellish is the fact that unlike the pictograms in Chinese, known as hànzi (漢字) where most characters have one basic reading, almost all Japanese kanji have several possible, often unrelated readings.

Take the kanji for “I”. In Chinese it is pronounced wǒ. In Japanese, however, it can be pronounced a, aré, ga, wa, waré, and waro. The character for “food/eat” 食 is read shí in Chinese, but can be read uka, uke, ke, shi, jiki, shoku, ku, kui, su, ta, ha and so on, depending on context. And while the kanji for “go”, 行 can be read in a number of similar ways in Chinese—xíng, háng, hang, héng—in Japanese it can be read in all kinds of different ways: kô, gyô, okona, yu, yuki, yuku, i, an, and, who knows, possibly more. 

Kids in Japan must master 1,006 of the 2,136 different characters, the so-called jôyô kanji,[1] by the end of elementary school and the remainder in junior high school.

Now think about that.

It can take up to nine years of education for a Japanese child to become literate in his own language, far longer than it takes an American to learn how to read English. By comparison, hangul (한글) the Korean writing system can be mastered for the most part in a single day. If you’re determined enough, that is. I taught myself how to read (though not understand) hangul during a trip I took in the mid 90s. Riding on the high-speed train connecting Busan in the south of the country to Seoul in the north, I compared the Romanization of the station names and the Chinese characters with the hangul. By the time I reached Seoul a few hours later, I could read the Korean script. Piece of cake!

No other language offers as overwhelming a barrier to entry as Japanese does when it comes to its writing system. As a result, students of the language are often forced to focus on speaking alone. They cannot reinforce what they learn by, say, reading books or magazine and newspaper articles the way you can with other languages.

If they ever try to do so, however, as I did, they’ll find that written Japanese is a very different animal from the spoken language. Open up any book, even a collection of casual, humorous essays by Murakami Haruki for example, and you’ll bump up against “ーde-aru” (ーである). I hadn’t come across this copula[2] until I started trying to read things other than textbooks and manga.

De-aru, which is just another way of say desu (ーです) but in a more formal and rigid way that is suitable for reports or making conclusions, is only the beginning. (You can learn more about de-aru here.) While I can generally catch almost everything that is being said to me or what is said on TV even when I’m not really paying attention,[3] written Japanese takes concentrated effort to comprehend and sometimes up to three perusals[4] to get a firm grasp on what the writer is trying to convey.

 

Even if you’re not interested in learning how to read Japanese, just trying to master the spoken language can provide you with years of headaches.

Thinking I could master the language in my first three months or so in Japan, I dove headfirst into my studies almost as soon as I arrived, taking sometimes two to three private lessons a week.

At the time, the selection of textbooks for learners of Japanese was extremely limited. While I had a good set of dictionaries called the Takahashi Romanized “Pocket” Dictionary—the only kind of pockets they would conceivably fit in were the pockets you might find on the baggy pants of a circus clown—the textbook I had to work with couldn’t have been more irrelevant.

Written for engineers from developing countries invited by the government to study and train in Japan, it contained such everyday vocabulary as “welding flux”, “hydraulic jack” and “water-pressure gauge”. The phrases taught in the textbook were equally helpful:

 

Q: ラオさんは何を持っていますか。

            Rao-san-wa nani-o motteimasuka。

                        What is Rao-san holding?

A: ラオさんはスパナを持っています。

            Rao-san-wa supana-o motteimasu

Rao-san is holding a spanner.

 

In all of my twenty-plus years in Japan, I have never once used this phrase. I haven’t used a spanner or a wrench for that matter, either. Nor have I met anyone named Rao.[5]

But, the biggest shortcoming of the textbook was its desire to have learners of Japanese speak the language politely.

And so, the less casual -masu (−ます) and -desu (—です) form of verbs triumphed. If you wanted to ask someone what he was doing, the textbook taught you to say:

 

あなたは、なにをしていますか?

(Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka?)

 

I practiced this phrase over and over: Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka? Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka? Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka? Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka? Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka?

Armed with this new phrase, I accosted a group of children in a playground and asked, “Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka?”

Crickets.

A few months later I was diligently studying Japanese in that most effective of classrooms—a girlfriend’s bed—when I learned that people didn’t really say Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka, especially to children much younger than themselves. No, they said, “Nani, shiteru no?” or something like that, instead.

After about a year of studying the language, I could manage. I certainly wasn’t what I would call fluent, but I was no longer threatened by starvation. When I moved to Fukuoka, however, I bumped up against a new and very unexpected wall: hôgen. The local patois, known as Hakata-ben, is one of the more well-known of Japan’s many bens, or dialects.

When the people of Fukuoka wanted to know what you were doing, they didn’t say anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka or even nani, shiteru no. They said, “Nan shiyô to?” (なんしようと) or “Nan shon?” (なんしょん).

Let me tell you, it took quite a few years to graduate from saying “Anata-wa, nani-o shiteimasuka?” to “Nan shiyô to?” And that, of course, was only the beginning. It took me nearly a decade to figure out what 〜んめえ (~nmê) and ばってん (batten) meant.

 

Example:

 

博多弁: 雨なら、行かんめーと思うとるっちゃばってん、こん様子なら降らんめーや。

Hakata-ben: Ame-nara, ikanmê to omôtoruccha batten, kon yôsu nara, furanmê ya.

標準語: 雨なら行くまいと思ってるのだが、この様子だと雨は降らないだろう。

Standard: Ame nara, ikumai to omotteru-no daga, kono yôsu dato, ame wa furanai darô.

English: I was thinking of not going if it rained[6], but it doesn’t look like it’s going to rain (after all).

 

My Japanese grandmother would say something like, “Anta, ikanmê” (you aren’t going, are you) to which I’d grunt, “Un” (that’s right), when in fact I had every intention of going. The poor woman and I had conversations like that all the time.[7] When I finally figured that one out it was as if the scales had fallen from my eyes. Day-to-day life here has contained fewer misunderstandings ever since. ばってん (batten), by the way, means “but”.

My experience with Hakata-ben has spawned a masochistic interest in Japanese dialects in general and I have been maintaining a blog on the topic for the past few years. Have a look-see!

Anyways, the long and short of it is that while English is no cakewalk, it’s still much easier to learn than many other languages, such as Japanese. So, the next time you hear your students grumbling about how difficult English is, just tell them, “Oh, shuddup.” Or better yet, tell them “Shekarashika!”

 


[1] 常用漢字, jôyô kanji, are the Chinese characters designated by the Ministry of Education for use in everyday life.

[2] A copula is a word used to link a subject and predicate, as in “John is a teacher”, where “John” is the subject, “a teacher” (actually a predicative nominal), the predicate and “is”, the copula. (Don’t worry, I had know idea what a copula was either until I started studying Japanese.)

[3] Unless it’s a period piece and the actors are using Edo Period Japanese.

[4] I use the word “perusal” to imply thoroughness and care in reading. So many Americans today mistakenly assume the word means “to skim”. It does not, it does not, it does not. So, for the love of God, stop it! Same goes for the word “nonplussed”. If you’re not a hundred percent certain of the meaning—and even if you are (over confidence is America’s Achilles heel)—don’t use it. Chances are you’re probably mistaken.

[5] I eagerly await his arrival, though. For when I find him, I will surely ask, “ラオさん、何を持っていますか?”

[6] I have intentionally translated this in the manner that Japanese speak—namely “I was thinking about not doing” rather than the more natural “I wasn’t thinking about doing”—to make the original sentences easier to understand.

[7] Incidentally, while in Tôkyô I chatted up a girl from Gifu who told me that they also used the same ~nmê verb ending. Her friend from Hokkaidô had never heard it before.

In Japanese Language, Life in Japan, Life in Fukuoka, Teaching Life Tags Learning Japanese, Hakata Dialect
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Blasphemy.jpg

Blasphemy

February 28, 2019

My wife made an interesting observation after spending the day with an old friend: "Ideas about the proper way to raise children are like a religion. It's like I belong to this sect. My friend belongs to another sect. And just like you shouldn't say 'My God is the One True God and yours is a blasphemy.' it's hard to tell someone that their way of raising a child may be wrong."

She was referring in particular to the Boob Tube and how some families have the TV on all day long like BGM in their homes. "How can you talk to your children or read to them if you've always got the TV on?"

As with religion—you won't really know if you were right or completely wrong until you die (even then you still may not have an answer)—when it comes to kids, you won't know if your policies worked until the kids grow up and go out into the world.

The other day, our sons (“Cain and Abel”) were at their grandparents. (Heaven on earth!) I plopped down on the sofa and looked at the black screen of my TV. I thought about turning it on to watch the news, but the effort to get off my arse and do so was too much. Inertia has a way of keeping you verring out of habit. It occurred to me that for many people the effort required to turn off the TV and open a book, instead, is often too much for many people, too.

In Life in Japan, Married Life, Raising Kids in Japan Tags Raising Kids in Japan, Raising Kids, TV, Kids and TV
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#櫛田神社 #Kushida #springinjapan #Fukuoka
View fullsize Mugon (Tacit, lit. Without Words) rice shōchū genshu from Sengetsu Distillery of Hitoyoshi, Kumamoto. Aged in cypress casks, I believe, it retains that telltale hinoki scent. I normally don’t drink Kuma-jōchū, but this is lovely. I’ll buy
View fullsize Another one of my somewhat hard-to-find favorites. Sang Som from Thailand. So smooth. I used to keep a bottle of it at Gamaradi before the pandemic. May have to do so again. Missed it. Missed Mr. Chang.
View fullsize First drink of the New Year is the best find of the past year: 

Yaesen Shuzō genshu #awamori from #Ishigaki Island. Aged in oak barrels, it has the nose of whiskey, the mellow sweet taste of a dark rum. At ¥5000 a bottle, it’s rather price
View fullsize Santa arrived early and just in time for Labor Thanksgiving Day 🇯🇵 

Two bottles of imo shōchū—one is a favorite, the other an interesting find I happened across during a short visit last summer to the Koshiki archipelago off the western coas
View fullsize Mission accomplished!

Dropped by the new Flugen in Hakata to drink one of my all-time favorite spirits, the somewhat hard-to-fine-but-worth-the-search Linie Aquavit from Norway.

#Flugen #Aquavit #Hakata
View fullsize Two or three weeks ago a friend invited me to join him at a big shōchū and awamori wingding at #FukuokaDome. Ended up buying about ten bottles of booze which I have stashed away at the in-laws’ for safekeeping. Of all the things I bought, this
View fullsize Takumi has once again included Maō in one of their #shochu box sets. At ¥5550, it’s not a bad deal. 

Kannokawa genshū—another favorite of mine made with anno sweet potates from Tanegashima—sold me. Ended up buying two. 

#かんぱい
View fullsize A little present to myself to mark the midpoint of the semester. Easy coasting from here.

Cheers and kampai!

#いも焼酎 #imoshochu #shochu #大和桜 #YamatoZakura
View fullsize Naha, Okinawa

#マンホール #Manhole #Naha #Okinawa #shisa #シーシャ
View fullsize At American Village in Chatan, Okinawa.

#北谷 #マンホール #沖縄 #Manhole #Chatan #Okinawa
View fullsize Final bout lasted 8 seconds. So, I guess it’s safe to say we’ve got that fickle momentum back.

#Karate #空手 🥋 #Kumite #組手
View fullsize 京都ぶらぶら

A long, slow walk through Kyōto
View fullsize 京都ぶらぶら

Kyōto stroll
View fullsize Always good to visit with my fellow traveler.

Gourmets of the world unite!
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KAMPAI Blog

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Jan 15, 2021
Hakaio
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Too Close to the Sun

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Feb 20, 2019
80. Why the long face?
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79. The Itch
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Jan 24, 2019
78. Soaring
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77. Yaba Daba Doo!
Jan 23, 2019
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76. Let's Make a Deal
Jan 3, 2019
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Nov 22, 2018
75. The Pied Piper of Patpong
Nov 22, 2018
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Nov 16, 2018
74. Ping Pong Pussy
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73. Yaba
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72. Lightning Strikes Twice
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71. Contacting De Dale
Oct 10, 2018
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A Woman's Tears

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Apr 2, 2018
18. Just When I Stop Looking
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17. Catch and Release
Apr 1, 2018
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Mar 29, 2018
16. Nudging Destiny
Mar 29, 2018
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Mar 25, 2018
15. HAKATA RESTORATION PROJECT
Mar 25, 2018
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Mar 20, 2018
14. Reversible Destiny
Mar 20, 2018
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Mar 12, 2018
13. Graduation
Mar 12, 2018
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12. Reading Silence Aloud
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Mar 7, 2018
11. Shut Out
Mar 7, 2018
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Mar 6, 2018
10. The Second Night
Mar 6, 2018
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Feb 28, 2018
9. At the farmhouse
Feb 28, 2018
Feb 28, 2018

Silent Ovation

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Feb 27, 2024
11. High School
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9. Death of My Father
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A Woman's Hand

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Jan 24, 2019
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48
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A Woman’s Nails

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14. Nekko-chan
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13. Tatami
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Yoko (Extended Version)
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11. Yoko
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10. Yumi
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9. Mie
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8. Reina
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7. Mie
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6. Reina
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5. Machiko
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HOGEN/Dialect

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Hashimaki
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Dialects of Japan
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Yoso vs Tsugu
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Aug 13, 2021
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Mar 18, 2021
Kampai Shanshan
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Articles

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With Friends Like These
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2 Seasons
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High Time for Summer Time
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Potsu Potsu: Japanese Onomatopoeia and the Rain
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May 19, 2018
Point Break
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F.O.B. & A-Okay
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Fukuoka Guide: Spring 2018
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Woman Kinder-rupted
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Summer of Loathing
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Election Primer
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Play With Me

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Jan 21, 2018
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Please Write

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Jan 21, 2018
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Jan 21, 2018
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Jan 21, 2018
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1000 Awesome Things About Japan

1000 Awesome Things About Japan

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Feb 26, 2020
8. Peas Gohan
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Jan 16, 2019
7. Finders, Returners
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6. No Guns
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5. Coin Lockers
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3. Uprightness
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2. Manhole Covers
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1. Flying in Japan
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5 December 1941
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1 December 1941
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